To Fiji now . . .

June - July 2018

When we made landfall in New Zealand back in December 2017 we entered the port of Nelson, at the top of the South Island, and cleared customs there. Near us in the marina was an American registered boat “Rendezvous”, a Balance 445 catamaran, and we chatted with her owners, Phil and Jean, as people do in marinas, they were American and had bought “Rendezvous” in Hong Kong and sailed for the last couple of years from there down through the Philippines, Indonesia and the East Coast of Australia then to New Zealand. They were also going to the Pacific Islands like us, and, as one does, we both said we may catch up again - never actually thinking we would!!

But, we did, in Tonga. As we were moored not far from them in Neaifu, we stopped to say hello as we were passing out to anchor back in Hunga Lagoon for a couple more days – Neaifu harbour was so well protected there was very little breeze and we needed to get out of the heat and humidity for a while. Hellos exchanged, they asked our plans for the next week or so – we had been looking at the weather and felt that either Tuesday or Friday would be a good window to set off for Fiji – they had the same weather window in mind so we made plans to meet up with them again Monday 25^th June to recheck the weather and maybe sail in convoy to Fiji.

Monday we were back in Neaifu, last load of washing done, last fresh fruit and veges bought, weather checked – tomorrow we were off to Fiji.

Customs cleared by midday, Tuesday 26^th June, and along with “Rendezvous” and another catamaran, “Distant Sun” (Rob and Nicola) we were on our way.

Simply gorgeous view behind us en route to Fiji

A cold local beverage and glass of red after arrival

The wind was almost behind us, on our port quarter, so after we cleared the harbour we raised the mainsail, pulled out the genoa and were off – expecting a two and half to three-day sail – we were flying along, at one point the speed log showed a great 16 knots boat speed!! We made the passage in just a speck over two days, arriving in Savusavu, Fiji just after lunch on Thursday and were tied up to the rather ramshackle looking marina awaiting customs – luckily for us we made such good time as Friday was a public holiday and so clearing-in charges were considerably more Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays. Formalities over we showered, washed the salt off SOL and waited for Phil and Jean, who arrived and were moored by 9pm.

Savusavu is not much, just a main street, with many, many shops, a market, and numerous eating places. Most of which were closed on the Friday holiday but we did manage to find a bar that served us drinks and a very passable fish and chips (at only $6 Fijian each). 

Mahi Mahi !!!

There is a chap in Savusavu, Curly, who runs the sailors net here greeting all who care to listen with a cheery “Goooood morning, Sa-a-a-a-avu-savu” then proceeds to give all sorts of helpful information about the town and surrounds. He also holds seminars and sells fishing lures ’guaranteed’ to catch mahi-mahi – and, yes, Jamie and Phil went out and in a couple of hours had caught three of good size so even after sharing them three ways, we had fish dinners ready for the next ten days.

We caught the local bus (driven at breakneck speed with radio blaring) to the town of Labasa – a three-hour journey each way, one day - not that there was a lot to see there, but certainly a bus trip not to be missed. The bus was crowded on its return journey to Savusavu, it being 4pm and so it was full of school children - it was delightful to see the bus stop at each village along the way, children disembark to the welcoming calls from younger siblings waiting for them.

We visited the Savusavu markets for tremendous fresh fruit and veges and organised to buy our bundles of kava (yaqona – pronounced yangoona) from a local gent who had a shed full of the strange looking roots, necessary for sevusevu on the outer islands.

Sevusevu is a ceremony performed when you first arrive at a new village, it involves finding the Turanga-ni-koru (headman) who will take you to the chief. The Turanga-ni-koru talks to the chief for you, hands over the kava and any other gifts you have brought to the village then after the chief has accepted your gift of kava he welcomes you to the village, the surrounding land and waters. It is an essential part of going to each new village and also entails women to wear skirts covering their knees (or a sulu) and have their shoulders covered. No sunglasses or hats worn and backpacks can be carried anyhow except on the back!!

We had a great time with Phil and Jean then left to go in opposite directions – them to Suva and back to USA for two months and us to explore more islands.

At The Planters Club, an old colonial club, Savusavu, with Phil and Jean (Rendezvous)

Fawn Harbour then Viani Bay then heading out to Rabi Island to Catherine Bay and beautiful Albert Cove where we had been told was really good snorkelling, spending a few days there with Midnight Sun (John and Wendy) before we left for Taveuni then on to Matagi Island for a couple of nights preparing for an early morning start to make the long day sail to Vanua Balavu (leaving midnight in the pitch black but with a good 20knot breeze) as we must make the entrance to the reef by 2pm – in daylight so you could see the reef and coral bommies between there and the anchorage spot two hours motoring time away. We arrived at 2.09pm!! And were anchored happily by 3.45.

Another magical sunset to add to the memories

We had reached the Lau Group, and ahead of us were a multitude of magical islands to explore.

Young girl seen on the bus to Labasa (pronounced Lam-bassa)

School Bus Fiji style

Cathedral, Catherine Bay, Rabi Island - used now for youth group conventions

Simply idyllic...

Beached as, Bro …

With a dirty bottom, SOL does not respond well to either the autopilot or to requests to change tack – she becomes very sluggish and the time had come for us to take a serious look at her hulls. She had something wrapped around the propeller or she needed a clean – either way we were going to find out and the easiest way to do this is to approach a level piece of land and wait for the tide to go out leaving her high and dry until the tide comes back in and we float away. Very easy to say.

First – scope out area for beach that has not too much of an incline - you don’t want everything sliding around inside

Second – check there are not too many people around - some take offence to you beaching your boat and cleaning sea debris from the hull

Third – check there is enough rise and fall of tide so you can get out, clean and back in – nothing would be worse than to get stranded waiting for the next high high tide to float you off

Fourth – check there is no swell - don’t want to bounce up and down amidst the waves as the tide comes in and out

Gurnard - almost too pretty to eat

Now finding the “best” spot is not actually that easy. We started thinking about it and keeping an eye out for a prospective place as soon as we left Paihia. 

Travelling north past the Cavalli Islands and Matauri Bay we had 2 reefs in the mainsail and were tacking back and forth with SOL obviously not real happy. We did stop in gorgeous Mahinepua Bay for two days – before reaching Doubtless Bay where we had a super fishing spree catching gurnard, trevally, snapper and kahawai all in less than 24 hours – nyum, nyum.

Butlers Point Whaling Station, Hihi, near Mangonui

- well worth a visit

We sat on a mooring in Mangonui for a few days and whilst there visited the Whaling Station at Butler Point – what an amazing experience that was, sure, it cost $25 each – but money well spent – our guide, an archaeologist, was such an interesting speaker we could have listened for hours – just as well because he liked to talk too!! The house was built in the 1840’s by William Butler and he set up a very successful whaling supply station nearby. The museum was fascinating, with artefacts and relics of the old whaling days brought to life by the words of the curator.  The old film "Moby Dick" was playing which took you back so you 'felt like you were there'. The well-maintained house in its almost original condition is a treat to see and the gardens are extensive and have one of the most grand magnolia grandiflora I have ever seen as well as the largest Pohutakawa tree with a girth of 10.5metres.

Going south again we were on the lookout for a “beaching spot”. We anchored in some lovely places – Takerau Bay with its clear, clear water, Whangaihe Bay, just a small bay (One Boat Bay), reaching beautiful Whangamumu on March 6^th, then to Whangaruru Harbour – anchoring behind Motukauri Island where we weighed up the various places we had been recently…

Whangaihe Bay - yet another amazing anchorage

– we had found mudflat areas but eliminated those as although a nice soft bed to sit on we would find it awkward to clean her standing and sinking in the mud. We had found nice quiet secluded beaches that unfortunately had too much slope. We had found perfect places that were littered with sharp jutty out things just waiting to pierce through a delicate hull. We figured that we had found “the” place in Whangaruru Harbour - Tuparehuia Bay. We scoped it out in the dinghy in the afternoon and decided - YES.

Early to bed as the high tide was 0100 next morning and we wanted to beach 2 hours after the high (that would mean we would be floating again 2 hours before the next high tide). Well, 3am on beach day – Thursday March 8^th it was pouring with rain, visibility minimal, not ideal conditions to be putting our home on the dry land if we couldn’t see said dry land as we approached!!

So we waited.

At 345am the rain had gone and although the moon was hidden, once our eyes adjusted we could see somewhat. With Jamie as lookout on the bow I drove a little nervously straight at the shore and surprisingly enough with no drama just before 4am we were nose on the beach, anchors out fore and aft, and with the water receding around us we jumped back into bed for a nap before daylight and cleaning could begin.

SOL in the early morning light on the beach at Tuparehuia Bay

On the turn of the tide

All good – the propspeed we had painted onto the propellers was working well, they merely required a light wipe, the hulls had a few barnacles and slight growth which was removed easily and a length of fishing line was untangled from around the starboard propeller.

We did have a visit from a ‘concerned’ local resident – were we aware we should not be doing this?? No? really?, is that so?, replied Jamie rather innocently.

By 10am we were nearing lift-off, took in the bow anchor and with the aid of the stern anchor we pulled ourselves off the beach and had a jolly little sail down to Oakura where we met up with brother Andrew on his fishing boat, Joanne, for a quick hello before we continued south anchoring for the night in Tutukaka as the sun set. 

SOL was certainly a happier boat, even though the growth on her hulls had been minimal, it is incredible the difference a good clean makes. Next day it was off once again to Whangarei but this time via the magnificent Hen and Chicken Islands.

We made a quick trip into the Marsden Cove Marina – not to stay – just for a fuel stop – it is a really nice marina and were we into staying at marinas we may stay there!!

Another pod of dolphins played on our bow as we sailed along - always a joy to see them

With the next cyclone approaching we anchored in The Nook, at the north end of Parua Bay, and with 50metres of anchor chain out we settled back (a little nervously, me) to await the arrival of Cyclone Hola and expected 50-60knot winds. Here we sat for the next couple of days, and, as it was a really great anchorage Jamie had chosen, we were only slightly buffeted around – thankfully!!

Preparing for yet another cyclone!!

On Wednesday 14^th March we finally, on our third attempt, made it out to Fitzroy, Great Barrier Island, where we caught up and had sundowners with, Karen and Mike (True Companions), Jo and Rob (Double Trouble) and Debi and Pat (X-Pat). We had all left Australia around the same time so it was excellent to finally meet up.

In the morning we left them in Warren Bay and on the way to Smokehouse caught two nice sized Kahawai and a Skipjack Tuna. We had been told of the super facilities in Smokehouse Bay and were certainly not disappointed – with a fire lit we enjoyed hot showers, did our laundry and smoked our fish. The three fish we had caught were far too much for us so we organised a pot-luck dinner with the crews of another half dozen boats and had a super evening.

At Smokehouse Bay, Great Barrier Island

Under the famous road sign

A few days is not enough time out on Great Barrier – a couple of months would be better but the next day saw us leaving this beautiful place and sailing through the narrow Man of War Pass to Blind Bay, then sadly, with – yes – you guessed it - another windy few days forecast we sailed to Whangaparaoa Peninsular anchoring in Tindalls Bay where we spent a great day ashore with Colin and Rosie Chester. 

I first met Rosie when working on the paediatric ward at Auckland Public Hospital during my nursing training and we had stayed in touch for the last 40 years, it is always great to catch up with her and Collie. Colin took us on a guided tour of the Whangaparaoa, Silverdale area - so much has changed here in the years since we were here last - there are few signs remaining of the farming area it was - now it is all industry and subdivisions - housing area after housing area. Such is urban sprawl and progress.

Sunsetting on a lovely day spent with Colin and Rosie

After Whangaparaoa in some rather rough seas we had a good sail up to Kawau Island where we anchored in Speedy Bay, where my family had had a bach for nearly 50 years and we had spent most of our childhood summers. We had a walk around the bay, up to the graves at the top of Edwards Point - the Mills family - George, Florence and their daughter, Grace - were buried here in a little private cemetery and as children we used to tend the graves. I have never been able to find out any information on the Mills family and their connection to our bay though. 

We wandered around the old property, checking on some of the many native trees Thomas had planted over the years, (even having a tiny snoop through the windows!!). The place is now rather dilapidated, the new owners obviously not caring for it as we had. I don’t think I will ever go back there again – too sad.

Speedy Bay, Kawau Island, our old house 2nd from right

SOL anchored in our old bay, Kawau

On Wednesday 21^st March we picked up a mooring at One Tree Point, Whangarei and readied SOL for us to leave her while we flew to the South Island to meet  Canadians Jim and Terry and tour there in a motorhome for ten days.

Whangarei Falls on the way to Auckland Airport - some things we never tire of - waterfalls, sunsets and dolphins

A Whale of a Time...

Mr Whale about to dive under SOL

We anchored off the beach at Scarness, in Hervey Bay, once again in very clear water. Next day we sailed out towards Platypus Bay, Fraser Island for our first close encounter with WHALES!! We spotted a pod not far from the beach and headed towards them, slowing as we neared, and watched a pod of 5 swim around and under our boat.

I....

Was....

Terrified....!!!

Truly they are the most incredible creatures, they are so big, look so cumbersome, yet are so graceful – a real paradox. They were so close to us, we could have leaned out and touched them, but as I said, I was so terrified that I couldn’t even photograph them – I videoed the sky, my feet, in fact everything else except the whales, all the time shrieking, and squealing!! Jamie was far more relaxed and yes, he managed to get a good shot of them!

We spent the night along with Helene and Graham (Roo Bin Esque) and Elaine and Andy (Twoflower) enjoying sundowners on the beach near the Arches watching whales swim between our anchored boats and the shore.

Sunset, Platypus Bay, Fraser Island

Thursday, 27^th July, we doodled around the bay watching whales before making our way down to the Urangan Boat Harbour where we cruised up to the public wharf and picked up Sarah and Andy, who were joining us for a couple of days. (Sarah is a doctor who worked with me for a year in theatre at GVH and she and partner, Andy, were on a road trip up this way). Their introduction to life aboard was perfect, a lovely sail out to the anchorage where we watched the sunset. Next morning it was whale watching in earnest – we saw whales, whales and more whales.

Sarah and Andy enjoying the whale show

Today, knowing these magnificent beasts would not intentionally harm us or our boat, I was a lot more relaxed, and apart from the odd – Oh my God!! Oh goodness!!  and other expletives!! I managed to even get some good photos and video.

We also saw dolphins, turtles and although we went ashore on a crocodile and dingo hunt these we did not see – luckily.
We had Finska and drinks ashore, watched out for the “green flash” as the sun set – didn’t see it – then when we returned to SOL there were hundreds of whiting hanging around her stern calling out – feed me, feed me – so we just had to throw in a couple of lines baited with chicken, which they couldn’t resist – consequently about an hour later we had a bucketful (took longer to fillet them than to catch) – a delicious breakfast feast.

We dropped Sarah and Andy back at Urangan then anchored off Moon Point for the night. With next to no wind for the next few days we are going to go up the Mary River to explore the historic old town of Maryborough.

Pancakes at Pancake...

We spent a peaceful night in Pancake Creek but on waking and looking around could see we only had about 60cm of water beneath us – eek. Although we had sat safely in this place through both a high tide and a low tide with no issues we decided to move to get a bit more water under the hulls with the winds expected to increase to 30knots over the next 24 hours. Before lunch the winds had indeed increased and the fairly full anchorage was crowded with boats dancing furiously at the end of their anchor chains. We spent a very apprehensive afternoon watching the boats each side of us come to within metres of us then pull away, the big worry as the tide went out was that the increased swing room would mean the boats would actually hit each other. None did, but many worried skippers moved their craft to other parts of the creek, some even left altogether preferring to be outside rather than in.

Bustard Head Light

It was with huge relief to us (envisaging a wakeful night keeping watch) that in the afternoon the wind eased right back, the dancing stopped and we had a very pleasant sleep, waking to a beautiful day.

Bustard Head Lighthouse beckoned us. Bustard Head light was the first light to be built on the Queensland Coast – (the light at Moreton Bay is older but back then it was the New South Wales Coast as there was not yet a Queensland). The lighthouse was constructed from cast iron, prefabricated in London, bolted together then taken apart, shipped to Australia and reconstructed within ten months with the light first shining on June 29th 1868. The lighthouse was manned until 1986, then fell into neglect and sadly vandalised until a group of volunteers repaired and restored it, opening it and one of the lighthouse keepers houses to visiting public in 2001.

We set off on the walk up to the light in the company of Rob and Marg (from Run to Paradise), and after exploring the lighthouse we walked over the ridge towards Jenny Lind Creek, so named as a schooner, the “Jenny Lind” was wrecked here back in 1857. The view south encompasses the creek, a long stretch of beach and the towns of 1770 (named by Cook in 1770) and Agnes Water. After, we visited the cemetery, a small, sad group of white fenced graves, some unnamed, some being those of merely babies. The Bustard Head Lighthouse has earned itself the name Lighthouse of Tragedy and there is a book about its tragic past written by one of the lighthouse keepers, Stuart Buchanan, which we purchased.

Pancakes at Pancake Creek - Roger, Julie, Dennis, Bruce, Jamie and Kay

No stay in Pancake Creek would be complete without pancakes!!! And a group of seven of us joined Roger and Julie on their Schionning “Clawdette” to enjoy afternoon tea of pancakes with topping choices including maple syrup, lemon and sugar, jam, Nutella and fresh cream – delicious!!

A fire, Finska, and dinner ashore, a lovely last night in Pancake Creek

Our last night in the creek saw us on the shore, with a raging fire and a pot-luck dinner, playing Finska before the light died away. We had a very enjoyable evening with Robert and Sylvia (Phoenix X), Steve and Laura (Eaglehawk) and Rob and Marg (Run to Paradise). It was sad to say farewell to these lovely people we had met, most people are travelling north at the moment and we are going south, but we hope our paths do cross again one day.

It was delightful however, as we sailed out of Pancake Creek, to be waved away by Steve and Laura, braving the chilly morning in their jamas.

Our Bundaberg anchorage - right up in the city, by the bridge

A great sail to Bundaberg, this time we went right up the river to anchor just in front of the bridge at Bundaberg Central. A totally different outlook for sure – lights and city noises not being what we have become used to.

Saturday and Jamie’s birthday, poor man, I dragged him off to the shops – not his favourite pastime – in fact not even his second or third favourite!!!  I think I was forgiven though when I cooked him roast pork with crisp yummy crackling for dinner.

That afternoon some truly considerate person lit a fire that spewed large black globs of ash all around. Sol is covered with this horrid mess. There is a wedding party having photographs on the riverside, they are being covered with this horrid mess. The water in the river is covered with this horrid mess. The air all around us is full of this horrid mess. And – there is nothing we can do about it but close all the hatches to try to keep as much of it outside and wait until tomorrow to wash all this bloody horrid mess from our boat.

Sunday morning it was back out to the best fresh fruit and vege markets we have seen yet, we completely stocked up, coming away with the sweetest little pineapples, passionfruit, avocadoes, as well as salad ingredients. The markets are not just fruit and vege though, so along with our fresh produce we now have a serious new (second-hand) fishing rod and reel which will hopefully ensure we catch some big fish when trolling off the back of SOL. We also found some rod holders that fit in the top of the winches and a couple more lures – guaranteed to catch the big ones said the man who sold them to us.

After we had washed as much of the aforementioned horrid mess from SOL, we left Bundaberg Central and motored down the river to anchor just inside the heads again. Ready for an early departure further south to Hervey Bay.

Looking towards 1770, Agnes Water and Jenny Lind Creek

Hitchhikers on the way to Bundaberg

Mr Toad, seen on way to lighthouse

The Drought Breaks …

Saturday 20th May 2017

We didn’t leave early – it was about 9.30am when we left Mackay Marina bound for Scawfell. Travelling in convoy with Titch and Bev Timmermans on their Leopard 40, “EverRest”, we sailed the 27 nautical miles in 3 ½ hours, not a bad effort, and so pleasant to be out sailing again.

We decided to try a new lure purchased on recommendation from the lovely little man at the fishing shop in Mackay – The Compleat Angler – where we had also got a landing net - never again  would we have the frustration of getting the catch inches from the boat then losing it. Within minutes of putting said lure out, Jamie was shouting “I’ve got one, I’ve got one” and a perfect spotted mackerel was in the boat – woo hoo - dinner sorted!!

The beautiful tropical island of Scawfell

Scawfell is the most southern of the Whitsundays and we were the only two boats in this magnificent anchorage where the water was the most amazing colour – turquoise to aqua and all colours in-between and so clear that it was hard to ascertain accurately the depth. On shore, we found fresh water streams flowing under and over rocks and a sandy beach rather than the smashed coral beaches often found. We truly felt like we were on a tropical island as we walked along the sand under palm trees - we even found a coconut but sadly upon opening it  - it stunk !!!

A little off-putting was the sighting of a couple of reef shark - just happily cruising around metres from shore right in front of where we standing and saying we were going to go snorkelling in the morning - haha - a slight change of plans methinks!! They hung around for about fifteen minutes but by the time we had got the dinghy and started back to SOL they had gone on their merry way.

The fishing was good here as well - a couple of nice sized sweetlip and something else we think was a trevally happened to end up on our lines at sunset, all good eating!!

We spent two nights here on Scawfell, and yes, we did go snorkelling - we just went to the other side of the bay to where we had seen the sharks and though the snorkelling was not great it was the best coral we had seen so far.
The next day, when our nice secluded anchorage became crowded - another five boats deciding to join us - we moved off to Brampton Island, another lovely sail across with the wind almost behind us and woo hoo - another spotted mackerel ended up in our freezer!!

So reassuring that there are still some fish left in the sea, and that we have not managed to completely forget how to catch them - not that we enjoy the killing of them, but we do certainly like the eating of them, so the end justifies the means I guess.

That afternoon, we went ashore armed with a large screwdriver - our quarry - oysters - the rocks were covered with them but most that we had seen the previous day were very small and our mission was to find and collect enough so I could make oyster fritters for an entrée before having Bev and Titch over for fish dinner.

Brampton Resort - looking rather sad

We had a walk around the almost abandoned resort in the afternoon - before the cyclone the resort had been closed since about 2010 and in the hands of various caretakers, and Debbie had caused further degradation - however, talking with the caretakers friend we learned that there are plans afoot for a "ten star resort - where each unit has its own butler, maid and private chef etc." so things could look up in the future - if you can believe everything that you hear. (This to tie in with the tip for the Goodwood Handicap run in Morphettville, Adelaide, on Saturday 20th May, where we were assured that Hey Doc would prevail - however he came in 6th so, so much for the hot tip!!)

Titch, Jamie and I walked across to Western Bay the next day. The island is full of butterflies, all colours and sizes, pity that they don't stay still long enough for me to get a decent photo of them, and of course when they are still they fold up their wings so you don't get to see the colours anyway. Very disappointing. There are heaps of magnificent maidenhair ferns, other ferns, huge trees and fascinating coloured fungi. we saw kangaroo, some turkeys and these horrid little green ants who make nests in the trees and in my opinion look ugly even though they are small. And lots of rather large spiders that were very ugly and pretty scary.

Titch, Jamie, Linda and Bev

We enjoyed a lovely evening on EverRest, dining with Bev and Titch, playing cribbage (and drinking a lot of red wine) on Wednesday evening before saying goodbye to Bev and Titch on Thursday - we had enjoyed their company over the last week - as they were going north and we sailed down to St Bees and Keswick Islands - anchoring in Keswick for the night. Not the best anchorage due to the huge tidal range here up by Mackay.  When we arrived it was almost low tide and the tidal rise was 5.9 metres, consequently we had to leave the depth plus 6 metres under us multiplied by 4 for the scope of chain needed to ensure holding - we only have 50 metres of chain in total so that meant we had to drop the anchor in a maximum of 4 metres at low tide - not physically doable as that would have placed us just on the coral/rock ledge such was the geography around us. So we dropped the anchor in 7 metres of water put out all our chain and spent a restless night - luckily the wind was light and held us nicely off the shore at low tide and early Friday morning we said goodbye to Keswick and enjoyed a magnificent sail back to Mackay.