To Fiji now . . .

June - July 2018

When we made landfall in New Zealand back in December 2017 we entered the port of Nelson, at the top of the South Island, and cleared customs there. Near us in the marina was an American registered boat “Rendezvous”, a Balance 445 catamaran, and we chatted with her owners, Phil and Jean, as people do in marinas, they were American and had bought “Rendezvous” in Hong Kong and sailed for the last couple of years from there down through the Philippines, Indonesia and the East Coast of Australia then to New Zealand. They were also going to the Pacific Islands like us, and, as one does, we both said we may catch up again - never actually thinking we would!!

But, we did, in Tonga. As we were moored not far from them in Neaifu, we stopped to say hello as we were passing out to anchor back in Hunga Lagoon for a couple more days – Neaifu harbour was so well protected there was very little breeze and we needed to get out of the heat and humidity for a while. Hellos exchanged, they asked our plans for the next week or so – we had been looking at the weather and felt that either Tuesday or Friday would be a good window to set off for Fiji – they had the same weather window in mind so we made plans to meet up with them again Monday 25^th June to recheck the weather and maybe sail in convoy to Fiji.

Monday we were back in Neaifu, last load of washing done, last fresh fruit and veges bought, weather checked – tomorrow we were off to Fiji.

Customs cleared by midday, Tuesday 26^th June, and along with “Rendezvous” and another catamaran, “Distant Sun” (Rob and Nicola) we were on our way.

Simply gorgeous view behind us en route to Fiji

A cold local beverage and glass of red after arrival

The wind was almost behind us, on our port quarter, so after we cleared the harbour we raised the mainsail, pulled out the genoa and were off – expecting a two and half to three-day sail – we were flying along, at one point the speed log showed a great 16 knots boat speed!! We made the passage in just a speck over two days, arriving in Savusavu, Fiji just after lunch on Thursday and were tied up to the rather ramshackle looking marina awaiting customs – luckily for us we made such good time as Friday was a public holiday and so clearing-in charges were considerably more Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays. Formalities over we showered, washed the salt off SOL and waited for Phil and Jean, who arrived and were moored by 9pm.

Savusavu is not much, just a main street, with many, many shops, a market, and numerous eating places. Most of which were closed on the Friday holiday but we did manage to find a bar that served us drinks and a very passable fish and chips (at only $6 Fijian each). 

Mahi Mahi !!!

There is a chap in Savusavu, Curly, who runs the sailors net here greeting all who care to listen with a cheery “Goooood morning, Sa-a-a-a-avu-savu” then proceeds to give all sorts of helpful information about the town and surrounds. He also holds seminars and sells fishing lures ’guaranteed’ to catch mahi-mahi – and, yes, Jamie and Phil went out and in a couple of hours had caught three of good size so even after sharing them three ways, we had fish dinners ready for the next ten days.

We caught the local bus (driven at breakneck speed with radio blaring) to the town of Labasa – a three-hour journey each way, one day - not that there was a lot to see there, but certainly a bus trip not to be missed. The bus was crowded on its return journey to Savusavu, it being 4pm and so it was full of school children - it was delightful to see the bus stop at each village along the way, children disembark to the welcoming calls from younger siblings waiting for them.

We visited the Savusavu markets for tremendous fresh fruit and veges and organised to buy our bundles of kava (yaqona – pronounced yangoona) from a local gent who had a shed full of the strange looking roots, necessary for sevusevu on the outer islands.

Sevusevu is a ceremony performed when you first arrive at a new village, it involves finding the Turanga-ni-koru (headman) who will take you to the chief. The Turanga-ni-koru talks to the chief for you, hands over the kava and any other gifts you have brought to the village then after the chief has accepted your gift of kava he welcomes you to the village, the surrounding land and waters. It is an essential part of going to each new village and also entails women to wear skirts covering their knees (or a sulu) and have their shoulders covered. No sunglasses or hats worn and backpacks can be carried anyhow except on the back!!

We had a great time with Phil and Jean then left to go in opposite directions – them to Suva and back to USA for two months and us to explore more islands.

At The Planters Club, an old colonial club, Savusavu, with Phil and Jean (Rendezvous)

Fawn Harbour then Viani Bay then heading out to Rabi Island to Catherine Bay and beautiful Albert Cove where we had been told was really good snorkelling, spending a few days there with Midnight Sun (John and Wendy) before we left for Taveuni then on to Matagi Island for a couple of nights preparing for an early morning start to make the long day sail to Vanua Balavu (leaving midnight in the pitch black but with a good 20knot breeze) as we must make the entrance to the reef by 2pm – in daylight so you could see the reef and coral bommies between there and the anchorage spot two hours motoring time away. We arrived at 2.09pm!! And were anchored happily by 3.45.

Another magical sunset to add to the memories

We had reached the Lau Group, and ahead of us were a multitude of magical islands to explore.

Young girl seen on the bus to Labasa (pronounced Lam-bassa)

School Bus Fiji style

Cathedral, Catherine Bay, Rabi Island - used now for youth group conventions

Simply idyllic...