Beached as, Bro …

With a dirty bottom, SOL does not respond well to either the autopilot or to requests to change tack – she becomes very sluggish and the time had come for us to take a serious look at her hulls. She had something wrapped around the propeller or she needed a clean – either way we were going to find out and the easiest way to do this is to approach a level piece of land and wait for the tide to go out leaving her high and dry until the tide comes back in and we float away. Very easy to say.

First – scope out area for beach that has not too much of an incline - you don’t want everything sliding around inside

Second – check there are not too many people around - some take offence to you beaching your boat and cleaning sea debris from the hull

Third – check there is enough rise and fall of tide so you can get out, clean and back in – nothing would be worse than to get stranded waiting for the next high high tide to float you off

Fourth – check there is no swell - don’t want to bounce up and down amidst the waves as the tide comes in and out

Gurnard - almost too pretty to eat

Now finding the “best” spot is not actually that easy. We started thinking about it and keeping an eye out for a prospective place as soon as we left Paihia. 

Travelling north past the Cavalli Islands and Matauri Bay we had 2 reefs in the mainsail and were tacking back and forth with SOL obviously not real happy. We did stop in gorgeous Mahinepua Bay for two days – before reaching Doubtless Bay where we had a super fishing spree catching gurnard, trevally, snapper and kahawai all in less than 24 hours – nyum, nyum.

Butlers Point Whaling Station, Hihi, near Mangonui

- well worth a visit

We sat on a mooring in Mangonui for a few days and whilst there visited the Whaling Station at Butler Point – what an amazing experience that was, sure, it cost $25 each – but money well spent – our guide, an archaeologist, was such an interesting speaker we could have listened for hours – just as well because he liked to talk too!! The house was built in the 1840’s by William Butler and he set up a very successful whaling supply station nearby. The museum was fascinating, with artefacts and relics of the old whaling days brought to life by the words of the curator.  The old film "Moby Dick" was playing which took you back so you 'felt like you were there'. The well-maintained house in its almost original condition is a treat to see and the gardens are extensive and have one of the most grand magnolia grandiflora I have ever seen as well as the largest Pohutakawa tree with a girth of 10.5metres.

Going south again we were on the lookout for a “beaching spot”. We anchored in some lovely places – Takerau Bay with its clear, clear water, Whangaihe Bay, just a small bay (One Boat Bay), reaching beautiful Whangamumu on March 6^th, then to Whangaruru Harbour – anchoring behind Motukauri Island where we weighed up the various places we had been recently…

Whangaihe Bay - yet another amazing anchorage

– we had found mudflat areas but eliminated those as although a nice soft bed to sit on we would find it awkward to clean her standing and sinking in the mud. We had found nice quiet secluded beaches that unfortunately had too much slope. We had found perfect places that were littered with sharp jutty out things just waiting to pierce through a delicate hull. We figured that we had found “the” place in Whangaruru Harbour - Tuparehuia Bay. We scoped it out in the dinghy in the afternoon and decided - YES.

Early to bed as the high tide was 0100 next morning and we wanted to beach 2 hours after the high (that would mean we would be floating again 2 hours before the next high tide). Well, 3am on beach day – Thursday March 8^th it was pouring with rain, visibility minimal, not ideal conditions to be putting our home on the dry land if we couldn’t see said dry land as we approached!!

So we waited.

At 345am the rain had gone and although the moon was hidden, once our eyes adjusted we could see somewhat. With Jamie as lookout on the bow I drove a little nervously straight at the shore and surprisingly enough with no drama just before 4am we were nose on the beach, anchors out fore and aft, and with the water receding around us we jumped back into bed for a nap before daylight and cleaning could begin.

SOL in the early morning light on the beach at Tuparehuia Bay

On the turn of the tide

All good – the propspeed we had painted onto the propellers was working well, they merely required a light wipe, the hulls had a few barnacles and slight growth which was removed easily and a length of fishing line was untangled from around the starboard propeller.

We did have a visit from a ‘concerned’ local resident – were we aware we should not be doing this?? No? really?, is that so?, replied Jamie rather innocently.

By 10am we were nearing lift-off, took in the bow anchor and with the aid of the stern anchor we pulled ourselves off the beach and had a jolly little sail down to Oakura where we met up with brother Andrew on his fishing boat, Joanne, for a quick hello before we continued south anchoring for the night in Tutukaka as the sun set. 

SOL was certainly a happier boat, even though the growth on her hulls had been minimal, it is incredible the difference a good clean makes. Next day it was off once again to Whangarei but this time via the magnificent Hen and Chicken Islands.

We made a quick trip into the Marsden Cove Marina – not to stay – just for a fuel stop – it is a really nice marina and were we into staying at marinas we may stay there!!

Another pod of dolphins played on our bow as we sailed along - always a joy to see them

With the next cyclone approaching we anchored in The Nook, at the north end of Parua Bay, and with 50metres of anchor chain out we settled back (a little nervously, me) to await the arrival of Cyclone Hola and expected 50-60knot winds. Here we sat for the next couple of days, and, as it was a really great anchorage Jamie had chosen, we were only slightly buffeted around – thankfully!!

Preparing for yet another cyclone!!

On Wednesday 14^th March we finally, on our third attempt, made it out to Fitzroy, Great Barrier Island, where we caught up and had sundowners with, Karen and Mike (True Companions), Jo and Rob (Double Trouble) and Debi and Pat (X-Pat). We had all left Australia around the same time so it was excellent to finally meet up.

In the morning we left them in Warren Bay and on the way to Smokehouse caught two nice sized Kahawai and a Skipjack Tuna. We had been told of the super facilities in Smokehouse Bay and were certainly not disappointed – with a fire lit we enjoyed hot showers, did our laundry and smoked our fish. The three fish we had caught were far too much for us so we organised a pot-luck dinner with the crews of another half dozen boats and had a super evening.

At Smokehouse Bay, Great Barrier Island

Under the famous road sign

A few days is not enough time out on Great Barrier – a couple of months would be better but the next day saw us leaving this beautiful place and sailing through the narrow Man of War Pass to Blind Bay, then sadly, with – yes – you guessed it - another windy few days forecast we sailed to Whangaparaoa Peninsular anchoring in Tindalls Bay where we spent a great day ashore with Colin and Rosie Chester. 

I first met Rosie when working on the paediatric ward at Auckland Public Hospital during my nursing training and we had stayed in touch for the last 40 years, it is always great to catch up with her and Collie. Colin took us on a guided tour of the Whangaparaoa, Silverdale area - so much has changed here in the years since we were here last - there are few signs remaining of the farming area it was - now it is all industry and subdivisions - housing area after housing area. Such is urban sprawl and progress.

Sunsetting on a lovely day spent with Colin and Rosie

After Whangaparaoa in some rather rough seas we had a good sail up to Kawau Island where we anchored in Speedy Bay, where my family had had a bach for nearly 50 years and we had spent most of our childhood summers. We had a walk around the bay, up to the graves at the top of Edwards Point - the Mills family - George, Florence and their daughter, Grace - were buried here in a little private cemetery and as children we used to tend the graves. I have never been able to find out any information on the Mills family and their connection to our bay though. 

We wandered around the old property, checking on some of the many native trees Thomas had planted over the years, (even having a tiny snoop through the windows!!). The place is now rather dilapidated, the new owners obviously not caring for it as we had. I don’t think I will ever go back there again – too sad.

Speedy Bay, Kawau Island, our old house 2nd from right

SOL anchored in our old bay, Kawau

On Wednesday 21^st March we picked up a mooring at One Tree Point, Whangarei and readied SOL for us to leave her while we flew to the South Island to meet  Canadians Jim and Terry and tour there in a motorhome for ten days.

Whangarei Falls on the way to Auckland Airport - some things we never tire of - waterfalls, sunsets and dolphins