Beached as, Bro …

With a dirty bottom, SOL does not respond well to either the autopilot or to requests to change tack – she becomes very sluggish and the time had come for us to take a serious look at her hulls. She had something wrapped around the propeller or she needed a clean – either way we were going to find out and the easiest way to do this is to approach a level piece of land and wait for the tide to go out leaving her high and dry until the tide comes back in and we float away. Very easy to say.

First – scope out area for beach that has not too much of an incline - you don’t want everything sliding around inside

Second – check there are not too many people around - some take offence to you beaching your boat and cleaning sea debris from the hull

Third – check there is enough rise and fall of tide so you can get out, clean and back in – nothing would be worse than to get stranded waiting for the next high high tide to float you off

Fourth – check there is no swell - don’t want to bounce up and down amidst the waves as the tide comes in and out

Gurnard - almost too pretty to eat

Now finding the “best” spot is not actually that easy. We started thinking about it and keeping an eye out for a prospective place as soon as we left Paihia. 

Travelling north past the Cavalli Islands and Matauri Bay we had 2 reefs in the mainsail and were tacking back and forth with SOL obviously not real happy. We did stop in gorgeous Mahinepua Bay for two days – before reaching Doubtless Bay where we had a super fishing spree catching gurnard, trevally, snapper and kahawai all in less than 24 hours – nyum, nyum.

Butlers Point Whaling Station, Hihi, near Mangonui

- well worth a visit

We sat on a mooring in Mangonui for a few days and whilst there visited the Whaling Station at Butler Point – what an amazing experience that was, sure, it cost $25 each – but money well spent – our guide, an archaeologist, was such an interesting speaker we could have listened for hours – just as well because he liked to talk too!! The house was built in the 1840’s by William Butler and he set up a very successful whaling supply station nearby. The museum was fascinating, with artefacts and relics of the old whaling days brought to life by the words of the curator.  The old film "Moby Dick" was playing which took you back so you 'felt like you were there'. The well-maintained house in its almost original condition is a treat to see and the gardens are extensive and have one of the most grand magnolia grandiflora I have ever seen as well as the largest Pohutakawa tree with a girth of 10.5metres.

Going south again we were on the lookout for a “beaching spot”. We anchored in some lovely places – Takerau Bay with its clear, clear water, Whangaihe Bay, just a small bay (One Boat Bay), reaching beautiful Whangamumu on March 6^th, then to Whangaruru Harbour – anchoring behind Motukauri Island where we weighed up the various places we had been recently…

Whangaihe Bay - yet another amazing anchorage

– we had found mudflat areas but eliminated those as although a nice soft bed to sit on we would find it awkward to clean her standing and sinking in the mud. We had found nice quiet secluded beaches that unfortunately had too much slope. We had found perfect places that were littered with sharp jutty out things just waiting to pierce through a delicate hull. We figured that we had found “the” place in Whangaruru Harbour - Tuparehuia Bay. We scoped it out in the dinghy in the afternoon and decided - YES.

Early to bed as the high tide was 0100 next morning and we wanted to beach 2 hours after the high (that would mean we would be floating again 2 hours before the next high tide). Well, 3am on beach day – Thursday March 8^th it was pouring with rain, visibility minimal, not ideal conditions to be putting our home on the dry land if we couldn’t see said dry land as we approached!!

So we waited.

At 345am the rain had gone and although the moon was hidden, once our eyes adjusted we could see somewhat. With Jamie as lookout on the bow I drove a little nervously straight at the shore and surprisingly enough with no drama just before 4am we were nose on the beach, anchors out fore and aft, and with the water receding around us we jumped back into bed for a nap before daylight and cleaning could begin.

SOL in the early morning light on the beach at Tuparehuia Bay

On the turn of the tide

All good – the propspeed we had painted onto the propellers was working well, they merely required a light wipe, the hulls had a few barnacles and slight growth which was removed easily and a length of fishing line was untangled from around the starboard propeller.

We did have a visit from a ‘concerned’ local resident – were we aware we should not be doing this?? No? really?, is that so?, replied Jamie rather innocently.

By 10am we were nearing lift-off, took in the bow anchor and with the aid of the stern anchor we pulled ourselves off the beach and had a jolly little sail down to Oakura where we met up with brother Andrew on his fishing boat, Joanne, for a quick hello before we continued south anchoring for the night in Tutukaka as the sun set. 

SOL was certainly a happier boat, even though the growth on her hulls had been minimal, it is incredible the difference a good clean makes. Next day it was off once again to Whangarei but this time via the magnificent Hen and Chicken Islands.

We made a quick trip into the Marsden Cove Marina – not to stay – just for a fuel stop – it is a really nice marina and were we into staying at marinas we may stay there!!

Another pod of dolphins played on our bow as we sailed along - always a joy to see them

With the next cyclone approaching we anchored in The Nook, at the north end of Parua Bay, and with 50metres of anchor chain out we settled back (a little nervously, me) to await the arrival of Cyclone Hola and expected 50-60knot winds. Here we sat for the next couple of days, and, as it was a really great anchorage Jamie had chosen, we were only slightly buffeted around – thankfully!!

Preparing for yet another cyclone!!

On Wednesday 14^th March we finally, on our third attempt, made it out to Fitzroy, Great Barrier Island, where we caught up and had sundowners with, Karen and Mike (True Companions), Jo and Rob (Double Trouble) and Debi and Pat (X-Pat). We had all left Australia around the same time so it was excellent to finally meet up.

In the morning we left them in Warren Bay and on the way to Smokehouse caught two nice sized Kahawai and a Skipjack Tuna. We had been told of the super facilities in Smokehouse Bay and were certainly not disappointed – with a fire lit we enjoyed hot showers, did our laundry and smoked our fish. The three fish we had caught were far too much for us so we organised a pot-luck dinner with the crews of another half dozen boats and had a super evening.

At Smokehouse Bay, Great Barrier Island

Under the famous road sign

A few days is not enough time out on Great Barrier – a couple of months would be better but the next day saw us leaving this beautiful place and sailing through the narrow Man of War Pass to Blind Bay, then sadly, with – yes – you guessed it - another windy few days forecast we sailed to Whangaparaoa Peninsular anchoring in Tindalls Bay where we spent a great day ashore with Colin and Rosie Chester. 

I first met Rosie when working on the paediatric ward at Auckland Public Hospital during my nursing training and we had stayed in touch for the last 40 years, it is always great to catch up with her and Collie. Colin took us on a guided tour of the Whangaparaoa, Silverdale area - so much has changed here in the years since we were here last - there are few signs remaining of the farming area it was - now it is all industry and subdivisions - housing area after housing area. Such is urban sprawl and progress.

Sunsetting on a lovely day spent with Colin and Rosie

After Whangaparaoa in some rather rough seas we had a good sail up to Kawau Island where we anchored in Speedy Bay, where my family had had a bach for nearly 50 years and we had spent most of our childhood summers. We had a walk around the bay, up to the graves at the top of Edwards Point - the Mills family - George, Florence and their daughter, Grace - were buried here in a little private cemetery and as children we used to tend the graves. I have never been able to find out any information on the Mills family and their connection to our bay though. 

We wandered around the old property, checking on some of the many native trees Thomas had planted over the years, (even having a tiny snoop through the windows!!). The place is now rather dilapidated, the new owners obviously not caring for it as we had. I don’t think I will ever go back there again – too sad.

Speedy Bay, Kawau Island, our old house 2nd from right

SOL anchored in our old bay, Kawau

On Wednesday 21^st March we picked up a mooring at One Tree Point, Whangarei and readied SOL for us to leave her while we flew to the South Island to meet  Canadians Jim and Terry and tour there in a motorhome for ten days.

Whangarei Falls on the way to Auckland Airport - some things we never tire of - waterfalls, sunsets and dolphins

Canada comes downunder…

Marnie and Dylan returned to America on January 31^st and next on our agenda was a visit from my very good friends from Canada that I had met back when I had travelled there in my early 20’s. Finally, after many years planning, they were making the big trip to this end of the world.

Jamie, Terry, Fay and Jim

And he's hooked the big one!!
Pity it was a stingray

We were so very excited to meet Jim, Terry and Fay up in Paihia and on yet another cloudy and wet afternoon sailed out through Kent Pass to anchor in-between Dove’s and Blacksmith Bay. 

Keen to catch dinner the lines were soon baited up and dropped in, scoring a few snapper – enough for a meal though, before Jim hooked the Big One!! A mammoth struggle ensued, as he reeled it closer to the boat we got ready to land it then, time and time again it took off, pulling metres of line off the reel for him to wind in again. An hour and a quarter later we got the biggest stingray we had seen so far close enough to SOL to cut the line free and save all the gear bar the hook. Jim had had a ball trying to bring it in and we were all enthralled watching the fight.

Great looking snapper, Jim

A relaxing day - Fay & Terry, up on the foredeck.
Perfect calm exploring Whangaroa Harbour.

Leaving “Stingray Bay” next morning with blue skies and beautiful sunshine we sailed up the coast trawling for, and catching, kahawai on the way. We passed the Cavalli Islands and as the wind increased put a reef in the mainsail and had a super sail to Whangaroa Harbour where we anchored in a very strong tide just off the wharf and headed into the Gamefishing Club for dinner and drinks.

Another glorious day dawned and we toured the upper reaches of this really pretty harbour, stopping in Okura Bay, Totara North, where we went ashore to stretch our legs. We walked down to the site of the oldest timber mill in New Zealand, which only closed down in the early 2000’s. This was particularly interesting to Jim as he had worked in the mill in Canada.

The old mill at Totara North - 

one of the oldest mills and the last kauri mill still in operation

before it closed down in 2002

Sailing back to the Bay of Islands the cloud again increased and yet again it rained – what is the story with this New Zealand summer weather???

Another bad weather day had us doing a bit of land-based touring, we drove first to Opua where we used the excellent shower facilities at the marina there ($2 for 5 mins hot water) had coffee then to Kerikeri.

Kerikeri seems to be the home of “The Oldest….in New Zealand”. It is where you find the Kerikeri Mission Station, (which dates back to 1819). Here is the Oldest Stone Store – the first store and the oldest still operating store in New Zealand, the Oldest Pear Tree and the Oldest Surviving House (Kemp House). St James Church, just a short walk up the road, is one of the Oldest Churches.

Kerikeri - with the stone store, St James Church, Kent House and the river

Lunch was partaken at the pub in Kerikeri, where I had the best seafood chowder ever!! Then we went to Waimate North to the Te Waimate Mission which was the fourth mission station established and is the Oldest Inland Mission Station. Here we looked through this magnificent house, the churchyard nearby and the cemetery containing some of the Oldest Gravestones in New Zealand.

We returned to Paihia via Haruru Falls, more food and alcohol were purchased, then next day we left Paihia and stopped at Roberton Island where we again walked to the lookout at the top. Today, the weather was great and Terry, Fay, Jim and I swam out to the boat leaving Jamie to bring the Yamahama.

Amazing view from Roberton Island summit

We hauled up the screecher and with the wind around 10knots sailed blissfully past the Hole in the Rock down to Whangaruru Harbour anchoring in Tuparehuia Bay for the night. The evening being spent with fishing lines out, drink in hand, enjoying each other’s company, as each evening was spent!!!

Next stop Whangamumu – and what a magnificent stop it was too – Terry and Fay got on the paddleboards (which can convert to kayaks) and kayaked around this beautiful bay whilst Jamie, Jim and I trekked up to the top of the track behind the old whaling station, past the waterfall, to take in the amazing view – north and south.

A walk to check the view from the top of Whangamumu for Jamie, Jim and I

Terry and Fay paddling around the bay, Whangamumu

Yet another Cyclone was heading our way so we returned to the mooring in Paihia and leaving SOL there we drove down to Auckland feeling there was no point in just hanging out on the boat at the mooring with the weather too bad to even get ashore.

We took a break in Warkworth at the Parry Kauri Park where we walked around the boardwalk which loops through the beautiful native bush. The park contains a small museum, various old outbuildings, old farm implements, kauri felling equipment and two of the hugest, oldest kauri trees (take that – Kerikeri!!) – with girths of more than 7 metres – one is thought to be the largest kauri tree on New Zealand’s east coast.

Parry Kauri Park, Warkworth

Auckland was its usual big city bustling self but, joined by long-time friend, Barbara, Fay, Terry and I spent lovely time walking around the city – in the rain. We visited Sky City and the museum – spending a fascinating four hours there – we could spend days and still miss bits. We walked the length of Queen Street window shopping, saw the Art Gallery and the Viaduct Precinct and enjoyed the best Asian seafood dinner ever.

Whilst the girls played tourist, the boys were hard at work fixing up problems left in the wake of the recently departed tenants of our Auckland apartment – what they achieved in 4 days was staggering and Jamie and I are so grateful for all the help from our Canadian visitors to get the apartment sorted and re-leased three days later.

After an awesome visit, we said farewells – we went back to SOL in the Bay of Islands, Fay left to return to Canada, Jim and Terry going to tour Australia for 6 weeks before we meet again in the South Island where we will travel around in a motorhome together for 10 days.

Bay of Islands still…

Jamie and I still had two days left at the timeshare, so we borrowed the bicycles and rode around to Waitangi and the Treaty House one day – the Treaty of Waitangi was signed on 6^th February 1840 between the British Crown and Maori chiefs from the North Island intending to recognise Maori ownership of their lands and give them the rights of British subjects, however some details were lost in translation from English to Maori, Maori to English and the Treaty has caused a great deal of consternation and legal issues over the years. Waitangi Day was declared a national holiday in 1974 and commemorates the date of the signing of the treaty.

We spent the next day cycling over to Opua – the port where we had initially intended to make landfall in New Zealand – an easy 7km ride.  Well, if it were flat, or if I were fit it would have been, perhaps. There are three or four hills – and the last of these is endless – especially when your legs are screaming – Stop, Stop, Stop. There was absolutely no way on God’s earth I was going to cycle back over them – I would rather have my fingernails pulled off one by one!!

We wandered around the marina, it has been developed since we were here in 2012 and the facilities looked superb. We scoped out the fuel dock and figured it would be a good place to pick up and drop off visitors. Finding there was a little track round the headland back to Paihia we decided this would be our route back. All started out well, nice bush track, ride some, walk the tricky bits – except the tricky bits got more and more so the further along the track we went – we ended up carrying the bikes in places. Never again I sooked!

Adventures around Paihia, Waitangi and Opua - by pushbike

Thursday night heralded the arrival of Marnie and Dylan, back with their good friends Claire and Barry from Cobram, Northern Victoria and Friday we moved out of “The Bish” (as Jamie has always called it) back to SOL and we were off sailing again.

Leaving Paihia on a grey morning (we seem to have had a lot of these) we motored in no wind to Awaawaroa Bay, stopping to do some drift fishing on the way – and yes, much to Barry’s delight we landed 4 good sized snapper to bake for dinner. Once anchored the paddleboards were unloaded, the Aussie tattoos applied, the boxing kangaroo blown up and secured to the front of one paddleboard and the Australia Day Celebrations began!!

Next morning, we had some wind so it was sails up and off to the Hole in the Rock, which we sailed around stopping to watch a couple of tourist boats go through the “hole” then it was back to more fishing before anchoring and again enjoying aforementioned fish. On waking next morning, we were greeted with the sight of a strange woman doing yoga on the beach – Otehei Bay will in future be known as “Up Dog Bay”.

Barry in his element - Fishing!!

Dylan catching dinner

It is such a pleasure to share SOL with the children, their friends and our friends. We had a super time with them all, before leaving SOL on the mooring in Paihia and driving to the apartment in Auckland for my dad’s funeral.

On 25^th January my father had died. He had been unwell for some time, in a rest home with dementia and although it was so very sad to have him gone there is no way he would have wanted to end his life in the way he did so it was with very mixed emotions we prepared to go back to Auckland for his funeral on the 30^th. He had given us a super childhood with summers at Kawau and winter skiing trips, and although he is gone we are left with many, many memories. I thank him for my interest in this sailing life.

Thomas Francis Turnwald 
18 April 1928 - 25 January 2018