Maryborough - Mary's City...

Early morning reflections on the Mary River

The river is brown, muddy brown, not an inviting colour at all. But the vista as you travel along the 20 something mile length is. The trip up the Mary River took us three hours, and it is incredible to think that back in the late 1850s Maryborough was a port of distinction with 22,000 of Australia’s free settlers entering the colony here between 1859 and 1901. Just how long would it have taken those early ships to sail up this same river?

As we walk up to the town from the wharf my mind wandered back to those early days – I could just imagine the trek up the slight hill in long skirt, stockings and shoes, holding onto my purse with one gloved hand while the other held my hat secure in the light breeze, my worldly belongings in a trunk as I set foot in this new land I was going to soon call home - romantic thoughts I know, but this would have been the scene in days gone by.

The old clock atop Maryborough City Hall chimes every quarter hour

Maryborough is an entrancing city, history exudes from all corners, Coles, Woolworths, Aldi and Bunnings looking rather out of place here. We joined a walking tour of the city guided by an extremely sprightly older lady dressed in period costume, this delightful lady met us at City Hall where we were lucky enough to even sit in the council chambers – a simply beautiful room whose walls were panelled wood with parquetry floor of local timbers – pictures of previous city leaders lining the walls. The charter with coat of arms proudly displayed. The walk took us past many points of interest - Queens Park – one of Australia’s earliest botanic gardens, with its sausage tree – (yes, this tree grows these fascinating looking sausage-like fruits), the Bond Store, Gataker’s Warehouse, the Military Museum, the old Court House, Post Office and places of worship – whatever took your fancy - there were churches, hotels, brothels and opium dens – much choice back then.

Brennan and Geraghty's Store on Lennox Street

No visit to Maryborough is complete without a stop in Brennan & Geraghty’s Store – no, there are no goods for sale here since old Mr Geraghty closed the door in 1972. But the store remains, exactly as he left it, closing after 100 years continuous family trading. In fact, no changes had been made to upgrade the shop for many, many years previous (gas lights still in place). Original stock – thousands of packets, tins, boxes and bottles remain on the shelves. Bulk items still in the storeroom and trading records remain in the office.

Did you know that Maryborough was the birthplace of P L Travers – (who? you ask).

Pamela Lyndon Travers was the author of the Mary Poppins books. Daughter of bank manager, Travers Goff, and his wife, Margaret, she was born Helen Lyndon Goff, in Maryborough in 1899.

The first Mary Poppins book was published in 1934 followed by seven others. Although the family moved away when she was just five years old, Maryborough can still claim her as theirs and there is a strong Mary Poppins flavour to the centre of the city. These magical pedestrian crossing lights have been installed (at considerable cost) and Mary's statue erected.

I could go on and on about the charms of this historic town, so much more than can be seen and absorbed in the week we spent here.

Now, Monday 7^th August, we cast off the lines and with the aid of the ebbing tide we take our leave from Maryborough and the Mary River Marina.  Along the riverbank, the view varies between patches of scrub, sugarcane fields, abandoned buildings and magnificent Queenslander homesteads as we wend our way peacefully downstream, reaching the river mouth three hours later and soon we are anchored just up from the Kingfisher Eco Resort, Fraser Island for the night.

A view of the Mary River from the top of the mast (I had to haul Jamie up to replace the anchor light)

Mary River Marina, a friendly place with all amenities (and a BBQ night with singalong every Thursday)

An interior shot of Geraghty's Store, shelves still stocked

A Whale of a Time...

Mr Whale about to dive under SOL

We anchored off the beach at Scarness, in Hervey Bay, once again in very clear water. Next day we sailed out towards Platypus Bay, Fraser Island for our first close encounter with WHALES!! We spotted a pod not far from the beach and headed towards them, slowing as we neared, and watched a pod of 5 swim around and under our boat.

I....

Was....

Terrified....!!!

Truly they are the most incredible creatures, they are so big, look so cumbersome, yet are so graceful – a real paradox. They were so close to us, we could have leaned out and touched them, but as I said, I was so terrified that I couldn’t even photograph them – I videoed the sky, my feet, in fact everything else except the whales, all the time shrieking, and squealing!! Jamie was far more relaxed and yes, he managed to get a good shot of them!

We spent the night along with Helene and Graham (Roo Bin Esque) and Elaine and Andy (Twoflower) enjoying sundowners on the beach near the Arches watching whales swim between our anchored boats and the shore.

Sunset, Platypus Bay, Fraser Island

Thursday, 27^th July, we doodled around the bay watching whales before making our way down to the Urangan Boat Harbour where we cruised up to the public wharf and picked up Sarah and Andy, who were joining us for a couple of days. (Sarah is a doctor who worked with me for a year in theatre at GVH and she and partner, Andy, were on a road trip up this way). Their introduction to life aboard was perfect, a lovely sail out to the anchorage where we watched the sunset. Next morning it was whale watching in earnest – we saw whales, whales and more whales.

Sarah and Andy enjoying the whale show

Today, knowing these magnificent beasts would not intentionally harm us or our boat, I was a lot more relaxed, and apart from the odd – Oh my God!! Oh goodness!!  and other expletives!! I managed to even get some good photos and video.

We also saw dolphins, turtles and although we went ashore on a crocodile and dingo hunt these we did not see – luckily.
We had Finska and drinks ashore, watched out for the “green flash” as the sun set – didn’t see it – then when we returned to SOL there were hundreds of whiting hanging around her stern calling out – feed me, feed me – so we just had to throw in a couple of lines baited with chicken, which they couldn’t resist – consequently about an hour later we had a bucketful (took longer to fillet them than to catch) – a delicious breakfast feast.

We dropped Sarah and Andy back at Urangan then anchored off Moon Point for the night. With next to no wind for the next few days we are going to go up the Mary River to explore the historic old town of Maryborough.

Pancakes at Pancake...

We spent a peaceful night in Pancake Creek but on waking and looking around could see we only had about 60cm of water beneath us – eek. Although we had sat safely in this place through both a high tide and a low tide with no issues we decided to move to get a bit more water under the hulls with the winds expected to increase to 30knots over the next 24 hours. Before lunch the winds had indeed increased and the fairly full anchorage was crowded with boats dancing furiously at the end of their anchor chains. We spent a very apprehensive afternoon watching the boats each side of us come to within metres of us then pull away, the big worry as the tide went out was that the increased swing room would mean the boats would actually hit each other. None did, but many worried skippers moved their craft to other parts of the creek, some even left altogether preferring to be outside rather than in.

Bustard Head Light

It was with huge relief to us (envisaging a wakeful night keeping watch) that in the afternoon the wind eased right back, the dancing stopped and we had a very pleasant sleep, waking to a beautiful day.

Bustard Head Lighthouse beckoned us. Bustard Head light was the first light to be built on the Queensland Coast – (the light at Moreton Bay is older but back then it was the New South Wales Coast as there was not yet a Queensland). The lighthouse was constructed from cast iron, prefabricated in London, bolted together then taken apart, shipped to Australia and reconstructed within ten months with the light first shining on June 29th 1868. The lighthouse was manned until 1986, then fell into neglect and sadly vandalised until a group of volunteers repaired and restored it, opening it and one of the lighthouse keepers houses to visiting public in 2001.

We set off on the walk up to the light in the company of Rob and Marg (from Run to Paradise), and after exploring the lighthouse we walked over the ridge towards Jenny Lind Creek, so named as a schooner, the “Jenny Lind” was wrecked here back in 1857. The view south encompasses the creek, a long stretch of beach and the towns of 1770 (named by Cook in 1770) and Agnes Water. After, we visited the cemetery, a small, sad group of white fenced graves, some unnamed, some being those of merely babies. The Bustard Head Lighthouse has earned itself the name Lighthouse of Tragedy and there is a book about its tragic past written by one of the lighthouse keepers, Stuart Buchanan, which we purchased.

Pancakes at Pancake Creek - Roger, Julie, Dennis, Bruce, Jamie and Kay

No stay in Pancake Creek would be complete without pancakes!!! And a group of seven of us joined Roger and Julie on their Schionning “Clawdette” to enjoy afternoon tea of pancakes with topping choices including maple syrup, lemon and sugar, jam, Nutella and fresh cream – delicious!!

A fire, Finska, and dinner ashore, a lovely last night in Pancake Creek

Our last night in the creek saw us on the shore, with a raging fire and a pot-luck dinner, playing Finska before the light died away. We had a very enjoyable evening with Robert and Sylvia (Phoenix X), Steve and Laura (Eaglehawk) and Rob and Marg (Run to Paradise). It was sad to say farewell to these lovely people we had met, most people are travelling north at the moment and we are going south, but we hope our paths do cross again one day.

It was delightful however, as we sailed out of Pancake Creek, to be waved away by Steve and Laura, braving the chilly morning in their jamas.

Our Bundaberg anchorage - right up in the city, by the bridge

A great sail to Bundaberg, this time we went right up the river to anchor just in front of the bridge at Bundaberg Central. A totally different outlook for sure – lights and city noises not being what we have become used to.

Saturday and Jamie’s birthday, poor man, I dragged him off to the shops – not his favourite pastime – in fact not even his second or third favourite!!!  I think I was forgiven though when I cooked him roast pork with crisp yummy crackling for dinner.

That afternoon some truly considerate person lit a fire that spewed large black globs of ash all around. Sol is covered with this horrid mess. There is a wedding party having photographs on the riverside, they are being covered with this horrid mess. The water in the river is covered with this horrid mess. The air all around us is full of this horrid mess. And – there is nothing we can do about it but close all the hatches to try to keep as much of it outside and wait until tomorrow to wash all this bloody horrid mess from our boat.

Sunday morning it was back out to the best fresh fruit and vege markets we have seen yet, we completely stocked up, coming away with the sweetest little pineapples, passionfruit, avocadoes, as well as salad ingredients. The markets are not just fruit and vege though, so along with our fresh produce we now have a serious new (second-hand) fishing rod and reel which will hopefully ensure we catch some big fish when trolling off the back of SOL. We also found some rod holders that fit in the top of the winches and a couple more lures – guaranteed to catch the big ones said the man who sold them to us.

After we had washed as much of the aforementioned horrid mess from SOL, we left Bundaberg Central and motored down the river to anchor just inside the heads again. Ready for an early departure further south to Hervey Bay.

Looking towards 1770, Agnes Water and Jenny Lind Creek

Hitchhikers on the way to Bundaberg

Mr Toad, seen on way to lighthouse