Sailing on SOL: Maryborough

Early morning reflections on the Mary River

The river is brown, muddy brown, not an inviting colour at all. But the vista as you travel along the 20 something mile length is. The trip up the Mary River took us three hours, and it is incredible to think that back in the late 1850s Maryborough was a port of distinction with 22,000 of Australia’s free settlers entering the colony here between 1859 and 1901. Just how long would it have taken those early ships to sail up this same river?

As we walk up to the town from the wharf my mind wandered back to those early days – I could just imagine the trek up the slight hill in long skirt, stockings and shoes, holding onto my purse with one gloved hand while the other held my hat secure in the light breeze, my worldly belongings in a trunk as I set foot in this new land I was going to soon call home - romantic thoughts I know, but this would have been the scene in days gone by.

The old clock atop Maryborough City Hall chimes every quarter hour

Maryborough is an entrancing city, history exudes from all corners, Coles, Woolworths, Aldi and Bunnings looking rather out of place here. We joined a walking tour of the city guided by an extremely sprightly older lady dressed in period costume, this delightful lady met us at City Hall where we were lucky enough to even sit in the council chambers – a simply beautiful room whose walls were panelled wood with parquetry floor of local timbers – pictures of previous city leaders lining the walls. The charter with coat of arms proudly displayed. The walk took us past many points of interest - Queens Park – one of Australia’s earliest botanic gardens, with its sausage tree – (yes, this tree grows these fascinating looking sausage-like fruits), the Bond Store, Gataker’s Warehouse, the Military Museum, the old Court House, Post Office and places of worship – whatever took your fancy - there were churches, hotels, brothels and opium dens – much choice back then.

Brennan and Geraghty's Store on Lennox Street

No visit to Maryborough is complete without a stop in Brennan & Geraghty’s Store – no, there are no goods for sale here since old Mr Geraghty closed the door in 1972. But the store remains, exactly as he left it, closing after 100 years continuous family trading. In fact, no changes had been made to upgrade the shop for many, many years previous (gas lights still in place). Original stock – thousands of packets, tins, boxes and bottles remain on the shelves. Bulk items still in the storeroom and trading records remain in the office.

Did you know that Maryborough was the birthplace of P L Travers – (who? you ask).

Pamela Lyndon Travers was the author of the Mary Poppins books. Daughter of bank manager, Travers Goff, and his wife, Margaret, she was born Helen Lyndon Goff, in Maryborough in 1899.

The first Mary Poppins book was published in 1934 followed by seven others. Although the family moved away when she was just five years old, Maryborough can still claim her as theirs and there is a strong Mary Poppins flavour to the centre of the city. These magical pedestrian crossing lights have been installed (at considerable cost) and Mary's statue erected.

I could go on and on about the charms of this historic town, so much more than can be seen and absorbed in the week we spent here.

Now, Monday 7^th August, we cast off the lines and with the aid of the ebbing tide we take our leave from Maryborough and the Mary River Marina. Along the riverbank, the view varies between patches of scrub, sugarcane fields, abandoned buildings and magnificent Queenslander homesteads as we wend our way peacefully downstream, reaching the river mouth three hours later and soon we are anchored just up from the Kingfisher Eco Resort, Fraser Island for the night.