The Drought Breaks …

Saturday 20th May 2017

We didn’t leave early – it was about 9.30am when we left Mackay Marina bound for Scawfell. Travelling in convoy with Titch and Bev Timmermans on their Leopard 40, “EverRest”, we sailed the 27 nautical miles in 3 ½ hours, not a bad effort, and so pleasant to be out sailing again.

We decided to try a new lure purchased on recommendation from the lovely little man at the fishing shop in Mackay – The Compleat Angler – where we had also got a landing net - never again  would we have the frustration of getting the catch inches from the boat then losing it. Within minutes of putting said lure out, Jamie was shouting “I’ve got one, I’ve got one” and a perfect spotted mackerel was in the boat – woo hoo - dinner sorted!!

The beautiful tropical island of Scawfell

Scawfell is the most southern of the Whitsundays and we were the only two boats in this magnificent anchorage where the water was the most amazing colour – turquoise to aqua and all colours in-between and so clear that it was hard to ascertain accurately the depth. On shore, we found fresh water streams flowing under and over rocks and a sandy beach rather than the smashed coral beaches often found. We truly felt like we were on a tropical island as we walked along the sand under palm trees - we even found a coconut but sadly upon opening it  - it stunk !!!

A little off-putting was the sighting of a couple of reef shark - just happily cruising around metres from shore right in front of where we standing and saying we were going to go snorkelling in the morning - haha - a slight change of plans methinks!! They hung around for about fifteen minutes but by the time we had got the dinghy and started back to SOL they had gone on their merry way.

The fishing was good here as well - a couple of nice sized sweetlip and something else we think was a trevally happened to end up on our lines at sunset, all good eating!!

We spent two nights here on Scawfell, and yes, we did go snorkelling - we just went to the other side of the bay to where we had seen the sharks and though the snorkelling was not great it was the best coral we had seen so far.
The next day, when our nice secluded anchorage became crowded - another five boats deciding to join us - we moved off to Brampton Island, another lovely sail across with the wind almost behind us and woo hoo - another spotted mackerel ended up in our freezer!!

So reassuring that there are still some fish left in the sea, and that we have not managed to completely forget how to catch them - not that we enjoy the killing of them, but we do certainly like the eating of them, so the end justifies the means I guess.

That afternoon, we went ashore armed with a large screwdriver - our quarry - oysters - the rocks were covered with them but most that we had seen the previous day were very small and our mission was to find and collect enough so I could make oyster fritters for an entrée before having Bev and Titch over for fish dinner.

Brampton Resort - looking rather sad

We had a walk around the almost abandoned resort in the afternoon - before the cyclone the resort had been closed since about 2010 and in the hands of various caretakers, and Debbie had caused further degradation - however, talking with the caretakers friend we learned that there are plans afoot for a "ten star resort - where each unit has its own butler, maid and private chef etc." so things could look up in the future - if you can believe everything that you hear. (This to tie in with the tip for the Goodwood Handicap run in Morphettville, Adelaide, on Saturday 20th May, where we were assured that Hey Doc would prevail - however he came in 6th so, so much for the hot tip!!)

Titch, Jamie and I walked across to Western Bay the next day. The island is full of butterflies, all colours and sizes, pity that they don't stay still long enough for me to get a decent photo of them, and of course when they are still they fold up their wings so you don't get to see the colours anyway. Very disappointing. There are heaps of magnificent maidenhair ferns, other ferns, huge trees and fascinating coloured fungi. we saw kangaroo, some turkeys and these horrid little green ants who make nests in the trees and in my opinion look ugly even though they are small. And lots of rather large spiders that were very ugly and pretty scary.

Titch, Jamie, Linda and Bev

We enjoyed a lovely evening on EverRest, dining with Bev and Titch, playing cribbage (and drinking a lot of red wine) on Wednesday evening before saying goodbye to Bev and Titch on Thursday - we had enjoyed their company over the last week - as they were going north and we sailed down to St Bees and Keswick Islands - anchoring in Keswick for the night. Not the best anchorage due to the huge tidal range here up by Mackay.  When we arrived it was almost low tide and the tidal rise was 5.9 metres, consequently we had to leave the depth plus 6 metres under us multiplied by 4 for the scope of chain needed to ensure holding - we only have 50 metres of chain in total so that meant we had to drop the anchor in a maximum of 4 metres at low tide - not physically doable as that would have placed us just on the coral/rock ledge such was the geography around us. So we dropped the anchor in 7 metres of water put out all our chain and spent a restless night - luckily the wind was light and held us nicely off the shore at low tide and early Friday morning we said goodbye to Keswick and enjoyed a magnificent sail back to Mackay.

Islands in The Sun...

April 2017 - still

We had to get a few things from the marine shop and although Abell Point appears to be an expensive stay, when you take into account the services offered there it works out beneficial – sure we could stay cheaper but those savings are negated the minute a hire car is introduced into the frame and Abell Point has not only the chandlery on the doorstep but concierge cars. We replaced the shower sump pump and got ourselves a “mantus hook” – a super natty thing that will eliminate the need for the two of us to hang down the hatch and tie a hook to the chain to attach the snubber at anchoring time then go through the same frustration when raising the anchor!! Another bonus to being in a marina perhaps is that fresh water is included – yes, we have a water maker so water isn’t really an issue but when in a marina you use the water supplied – anyway, owing to a moment or two inattention we overfilled the water tank and Jamie walked into the forward cabin and found himself ankle deep in water – we had found the leak that we had noticed when bashing into the weather a couple of days previously - overflow from the fresh water tanks. So we know where it is coming in we just have to figure out how best to fix it.

Friday morning, loaded up with food and fuel we set the screecher (a large, light-air sail like a spinnaker) and aimed for Hook Island – as usual the wind never takes us in a direct line so soon it was screecher down, main and jib up and we were tootling along albeit keeping a good lookout for flotsam and jetsam which we had been warned there was much of post Debbie.

Entering Nara Inlet, the effects of Cyclone Debbie became more evident – there were an awful lot of trees down and most of those left standing were denuded of their foliage, the water was murky as well. We joined another five boats down the far end of Nara, set our anchor and settled down comfortably in the cockpit with our books and the inevitable fishing line dangling over the stern – not even a bite tonight though. You sure can’t say our lack of fish catching is due to lack of trying.

On awaking Saturday morning, we set off in the dinghy to shore, of note to see in Nara Inlet are the Aborigine Caves – the Ngaro people left tangible evidence of their presence in the these islands so many years ago, with these rock paintings found in a cave an easy climb from the shore. (Note, however, the path has been closed off at present with strict instructions for people not to enter at fear of loss of life or limb!!) The site is very well set up, with information signs posted along its path and an audio area where you are able to sit and listen to pre-recorded stories from the Ngaro people and their descendants - stories of life, hardship and the dreamtime.  There is certainly a feeling of spirits past in this area, almost a reverence.

Further along the inlet is a waterfall, a very slippery climb takes you to its base and a small pool, this also had been trashed by Debbie with trees down and the pool brackish with decaying leaves.

Havoc wreaked by Cyclone Debbie

But the most significant reminder of the fury of this cyclone is a boat, a power boat, about 45 to 50 feet in length – a substantial vessel – perched above the high-water mark, on its side, canvas and ropes flapping, anchor chain hanging from the bow – a very poignant visual reminder of the power of mother nature and certainly a warning to us that the further away from the area when a major weather event like this is forecast the better.

Next stop Macona Inlet, just a short distance away but a world of difference in anchorage – we spent an horrendous night continually checking the anchor with the wind in one direction, tide in another, anchor chain grinding – and were happy to leave there Sunday morning for some snorkelling at Cataran Bay on nearby Border Island. However, on arrival there, one look into the very bumpy bay and - we figured – we don’t have to be uncomfortable – we have the rest of our lives to do this – we are not on a schedule – so we turned away and had a perfect downwind sail over to the tip of Hook Island, picking up a mooring in Maureen’s Cove.

Maureen's Cove

Maureen’s Cove is a well reputed camping and snorkelling spot right next to Butterfly Bay at the tip of Hook Island – well it was. Sadly, the trees are bare and although the picnic tables and toilets remain there is no visible evidence of the lovely camping spot. The beach, which is made completely of old coral pieces, is scoured away and mosquitos abound in the stagnant pools of water. We went snorkelling along the eastern side of the bay and saw many small, brightly coloured fish but the coral was broken up and covered with what looked to be a layer of grey-brown silt. Very different to what we had seen back seven odd years ago in the same spot.

Butterfly Bay was our next stop, just a hop around the point from Maureen’s. The water is so clean up here – it alternates in colour too, from bright blue to deep greens and all shades in between – a photo can’t do it justice – we set the watermaker going and filled our tanks – the luxury of fresh water available is something not all boaties can enjoy so many spend time counting and monitoring each drop. To easily maintain watermaker system freshness we need to run the watermaker every five days minimum else there is a bacteria build-up and of course the bonus of this is the ability to use water as and when we want.

Some of the broken coral washed up on the beach

Around the top of Hayman Island we went the next day, picking up a mooring in Blue Pearl Bay – an anchorage we shared with half a dozen other yachts and a couple of backpacker boats – these seem to enter an anchorage, disgorge twenty or so eager snorkelers/divers, stay for four or five hours then depart only to have their place quickly taken by the next boat loaded with a fresh group of punters!! The snorkelling in Blue Pearl Bay was the best so far – many more fish and slightly more coral – but again damage very evident.

Friendly batfish come for a pat

We did have some very friendly batfish visit with us here and in Maureen’s Cove. These large disc shaped thin fish come so close to the boat that a hand dangled in the water is almost an invitation for them to pat themselves against it. We had about a dozen – white, dark and striped – jockeying for the best position at our stern – very entertaining. They happily hung around the boat the entire time we were there - maybe they were wanting scraps but we were loath to encourage them to be dependent on boaties for their meals.

Hayman Island has had a resort since the 1940’s when Sir Reginald Ansett (founder of Ansett Airlines) built luxurious accommodation in anticipation of a royal visit to Australia and delivered guests to the island by seaplane. In 1985, a $300million project was undertaken to transform the resort to a “true luxury lifestyle destination” and more upgrades have taken place to the 5-star hotel in the years since. Hayman Island and its resort are no strangers to the forces of nature, having been extensively damaged by Tropical Cyclone Yasi in 2011 then Anthony (2015) and now again bearing the brunt of Debbie in March this year. The resort is closed for repair now until 2018.

Sailing south to Whitsunday Island was a blast – we flew along, upwind but making good time, arriving in Sawmill Bay, Cid Harbour for lunch then a walk around to Dugong Bay – yes, there are dugong there, and no, we didn’t see any.

So, Sawmill Bay is where we have stayed for the last ten days – with winds 25 to 30 knots, and what has seemed like continuous rain we have hunkered down here and done an awful lot of reading – lucky we have kindle e-readers as we would not be able to carry the number of books read this last week!! I’ve also knitted a little coat, beret and skirt for Lilly’s doll so will post them when we get to Mackay.

We did have one perfect day which we walked to the top of Whitsunday Peak, only a distance of a couple of kilometres – but all uphill. Not easy at all - certainly not after a week of just sitting - but absolutely worth it for the magnificent views all around from the top. These paths, or tracks, up the mountainside have been hewn out of rock, a huge effort by whoever built them. Sawmill Bay, here in Cid Harbour on Whitsunday Island, back in the 1890’s was a working sawmill, cutting hoop pine and shipping it to the mainland. The nearby stream was dammed and the mill steam powered, remains of the weir still visible just below a lovely waterfall where we stopped for a break both on the way up then again on the way down.

Magnificent views from Whitsunday Peak

The reprieve from the rain was short lived and funnily enough, we were pleased to eventually leave Cid Harbour and Sawmill Bay and set off in search of better weather further south.
Haha - we spent a few days in the marina at Mackay, most of those it rained as well.
But we did restock the groceries and get a couple more minor issues sorted. I also got some photos printed and placed in frames they help make the boat more a home - our home.

At Long Last...

April 2017

With the house sold, all our belongings we don't (think) we want or need on SOL in storage we are now on our boat full time.

Excitedly, yet somewhat nervously we flew up to Townsville on Wednesday 12th April 2017 to begin our sailing adventure, we were leaving our very normal lives behind and stepping out into the unknown. 
On Thursday we undid all our cyclone prevention and got SOL ready for departure, Friday we made sure all systems were go and Saturday we sailed out to Horseshoe Bay, Magnetic Island. The weather wasn't picture perfect - it was pretty windy so we had 2 reefs in the mainsail but we were happy to be getting underway in our own boat. 

SOL at anchor, Orpheus Island

From Magnetic Island we sailed north to the Palm Group, a small group of islands with a big lot of history - back in the 1920s, Queensland Aboriginal and Torres Strait people were forcibly moved to Great Palm Island from throughout Queensland, nearby Fantome Island was set up as a hospital catering initially for patients with venereal disease, then tuberculosis and was expanded to include leprosy, the hospital closed in 1973. During World War II, Palm Island was the site of the Black Cat Squadron, which flew the Catalina Flying Boats on long range missions.

Orpheus Island is a national park, with a research station run by the James Cook University and as well an exclusive resort also graces its shores. There is great diving and snorkelling all around the coral surrounding these islands. After the Palm Group we set off back to Magnetic Island, the start of our trek south. With the wind in our face it was a long, hard, frustrating sail, tacking endlessly it seemed, a trip that had taken us just seven hours on the way up took almost seventeen on the way back - such is the difference between sailing downwind and sailing upwind. 

Even though we knew the wind was not going to be our friend for the next few days – it was predicted to be SE 20-25kn, increasing to 30kn in the afternoons, we made the decision to go south to the Whitsundays. This would mean at least three days of sailing into the wind, bumping and crashing through the waves – not nice at all. It would test us and our boat though which had its advantages.

Magnetic to Cape Bowling Green was a horrendous sail – we spent the entire day just bashing into the wind, arriving in Bowling Green just after dark – a nasty experience as the tide was racing around the point, the wind was about 25-30kn, and the sand bar shifts here, so post Cyclone Debbie the depths on the chart and what we were getting on the depth sounder were not quite the same. So, in the dark, we dropped the anchor, let out all our chain and slept fitfully, waking often to check we were still holding fast – we were. We awoke to find we had set our anchor about a mile offshore – but, hey, who cares – we held, we were safe, and anyway – there was no one around to see us!!

After another day of hard work with two reefs in the main and multiple tacks, the next port was Upstart Bay, a nice little anchorage with a couple of sandy beaches in amongst rocky outcrops. There are houses/shacks scattered along the length but no road access so very private and a peaceful anchorage especially after the previous night. After a few windy nights, it is almost eerie to be in a calm spot and somehow I have the need to wake more often and check the anchor out of some irrational fear that we will move and I won’t have noticed – crazy I know. 

From Upstart to Bowen and around Abbott Point was a pleasant sail – mostly – SOL seems to like one tack better than the other – well it is probably that the wind instruments need calibrating (on port tack she goes 33 degrees to the wind whereas on the starboard tack we can only manage 44 degrees) which is rather frustrating until you accept this and sail accordingly – yet another little thing to sort out though. Although we have sailed past Abbott Point before it is still fascinating to see all the huge ships waiting their turn for coal loading here. Next day it was around Gloucester Island and towards Airlie Beach, we had decided to wait another day before going to Airlie as the marina day charges from midday one day to midday the next so there is little point arriving too much after midday so we wanted to time it right.

Anchoring in George Bay we threw out the fishing lines and were soon rewarded with bites – nothing we wanted to eat – a couple of pretty, unidentified species and a tiny shark but all too small and returned to the sea – rewarding as we were beginning to wonder if there really were fish in these waters – we had had no problems catching fish when we lived in New Zealand, just here. Leaving George Bay was the calmest weather we had had – next to no wind, and indeed, more tide than wind so much so we decided to just sit and drift for a couple of hours – it was lovely even though we weren’t sailing, to be just relaxing on board, reading, fishing line dangling over the stern, yet slowly making our way to our destination – this is surely the liveaboard life!!

The Good Life !!