Islands in The Sun...

April 2017 - still

We had to get a few things from the marine shop and although Abell Point appears to be an expensive stay, when you take into account the services offered there it works out beneficial – sure we could stay cheaper but those savings are negated the minute a hire car is introduced into the frame and Abell Point has not only the chandlery on the doorstep but concierge cars. We replaced the shower sump pump and got ourselves a “mantus hook” – a super natty thing that will eliminate the need for the two of us to hang down the hatch and tie a hook to the chain to attach the snubber at anchoring time then go through the same frustration when raising the anchor!! Another bonus to being in a marina perhaps is that fresh water is included – yes, we have a water maker so water isn’t really an issue but when in a marina you use the water supplied – anyway, owing to a moment or two inattention we overfilled the water tank and Jamie walked into the forward cabin and found himself ankle deep in water – we had found the leak that we had noticed when bashing into the weather a couple of days previously - overflow from the fresh water tanks. So we know where it is coming in we just have to figure out how best to fix it.

Friday morning, loaded up with food and fuel we set the screecher (a large, light-air sail like a spinnaker) and aimed for Hook Island – as usual the wind never takes us in a direct line so soon it was screecher down, main and jib up and we were tootling along albeit keeping a good lookout for flotsam and jetsam which we had been warned there was much of post Debbie.

Entering Nara Inlet, the effects of Cyclone Debbie became more evident – there were an awful lot of trees down and most of those left standing were denuded of their foliage, the water was murky as well. We joined another five boats down the far end of Nara, set our anchor and settled down comfortably in the cockpit with our books and the inevitable fishing line dangling over the stern – not even a bite tonight though. You sure can’t say our lack of fish catching is due to lack of trying.

On awaking Saturday morning, we set off in the dinghy to shore, of note to see in Nara Inlet are the Aborigine Caves – the Ngaro people left tangible evidence of their presence in the these islands so many years ago, with these rock paintings found in a cave an easy climb from the shore. (Note, however, the path has been closed off at present with strict instructions for people not to enter at fear of loss of life or limb!!) The site is very well set up, with information signs posted along its path and an audio area where you are able to sit and listen to pre-recorded stories from the Ngaro people and their descendants - stories of life, hardship and the dreamtime.  There is certainly a feeling of spirits past in this area, almost a reverence.

Further along the inlet is a waterfall, a very slippery climb takes you to its base and a small pool, this also had been trashed by Debbie with trees down and the pool brackish with decaying leaves.

Havoc wreaked by Cyclone Debbie

But the most significant reminder of the fury of this cyclone is a boat, a power boat, about 45 to 50 feet in length – a substantial vessel – perched above the high-water mark, on its side, canvas and ropes flapping, anchor chain hanging from the bow – a very poignant visual reminder of the power of mother nature and certainly a warning to us that the further away from the area when a major weather event like this is forecast the better.

Next stop Macona Inlet, just a short distance away but a world of difference in anchorage – we spent an horrendous night continually checking the anchor with the wind in one direction, tide in another, anchor chain grinding – and were happy to leave there Sunday morning for some snorkelling at Cataran Bay on nearby Border Island. However, on arrival there, one look into the very bumpy bay and - we figured – we don’t have to be uncomfortable – we have the rest of our lives to do this – we are not on a schedule – so we turned away and had a perfect downwind sail over to the tip of Hook Island, picking up a mooring in Maureen’s Cove.

Maureen's Cove

Maureen’s Cove is a well reputed camping and snorkelling spot right next to Butterfly Bay at the tip of Hook Island – well it was. Sadly, the trees are bare and although the picnic tables and toilets remain there is no visible evidence of the lovely camping spot. The beach, which is made completely of old coral pieces, is scoured away and mosquitos abound in the stagnant pools of water. We went snorkelling along the eastern side of the bay and saw many small, brightly coloured fish but the coral was broken up and covered with what looked to be a layer of grey-brown silt. Very different to what we had seen back seven odd years ago in the same spot.

Butterfly Bay was our next stop, just a hop around the point from Maureen’s. The water is so clean up here – it alternates in colour too, from bright blue to deep greens and all shades in between – a photo can’t do it justice – we set the watermaker going and filled our tanks – the luxury of fresh water available is something not all boaties can enjoy so many spend time counting and monitoring each drop. To easily maintain watermaker system freshness we need to run the watermaker every five days minimum else there is a bacteria build-up and of course the bonus of this is the ability to use water as and when we want.

Some of the broken coral washed up on the beach

Around the top of Hayman Island we went the next day, picking up a mooring in Blue Pearl Bay – an anchorage we shared with half a dozen other yachts and a couple of backpacker boats – these seem to enter an anchorage, disgorge twenty or so eager snorkelers/divers, stay for four or five hours then depart only to have their place quickly taken by the next boat loaded with a fresh group of punters!! The snorkelling in Blue Pearl Bay was the best so far – many more fish and slightly more coral – but again damage very evident.

Friendly batfish come for a pat

We did have some very friendly batfish visit with us here and in Maureen’s Cove. These large disc shaped thin fish come so close to the boat that a hand dangled in the water is almost an invitation for them to pat themselves against it. We had about a dozen – white, dark and striped – jockeying for the best position at our stern – very entertaining. They happily hung around the boat the entire time we were there - maybe they were wanting scraps but we were loath to encourage them to be dependent on boaties for their meals.

Hayman Island has had a resort since the 1940’s when Sir Reginald Ansett (founder of Ansett Airlines) built luxurious accommodation in anticipation of a royal visit to Australia and delivered guests to the island by seaplane. In 1985, a $300million project was undertaken to transform the resort to a “true luxury lifestyle destination” and more upgrades have taken place to the 5-star hotel in the years since. Hayman Island and its resort are no strangers to the forces of nature, having been extensively damaged by Tropical Cyclone Yasi in 2011 then Anthony (2015) and now again bearing the brunt of Debbie in March this year. The resort is closed for repair now until 2018.

Sailing south to Whitsunday Island was a blast – we flew along, upwind but making good time, arriving in Sawmill Bay, Cid Harbour for lunch then a walk around to Dugong Bay – yes, there are dugong there, and no, we didn’t see any.

So, Sawmill Bay is where we have stayed for the last ten days – with winds 25 to 30 knots, and what has seemed like continuous rain we have hunkered down here and done an awful lot of reading – lucky we have kindle e-readers as we would not be able to carry the number of books read this last week!! I’ve also knitted a little coat, beret and skirt for Lilly’s doll so will post them when we get to Mackay.

We did have one perfect day which we walked to the top of Whitsunday Peak, only a distance of a couple of kilometres – but all uphill. Not easy at all - certainly not after a week of just sitting - but absolutely worth it for the magnificent views all around from the top. These paths, or tracks, up the mountainside have been hewn out of rock, a huge effort by whoever built them. Sawmill Bay, here in Cid Harbour on Whitsunday Island, back in the 1890’s was a working sawmill, cutting hoop pine and shipping it to the mainland. The nearby stream was dammed and the mill steam powered, remains of the weir still visible just below a lovely waterfall where we stopped for a break both on the way up then again on the way down.

Magnificent views from Whitsunday Peak

The reprieve from the rain was short lived and funnily enough, we were pleased to eventually leave Cid Harbour and Sawmill Bay and set off in search of better weather further south.
Haha - we spent a few days in the marina at Mackay, most of those it rained as well.
But we did restock the groceries and get a couple more minor issues sorted. I also got some photos printed and placed in frames they help make the boat more a home - our home.