Ha’Apai to Vava’u

Yet another amazing anchorage vista

We left Pangai and set off exploring, heading south to the most amazing beach on the island of Uoleva – white sand stretching for miles, sand so soft that you sank up to your ankles and water so clear that in 10metres the sea floor appeared to be just a few inches down. There are quite a few resorts here on beautiful Uoleva offering accommodation ranging from traditional Tongan Fales (thatched huts) to “glamping tents”. We spent an evening at the bar of The Beach House and here we met up with the crew from “Family Circus” a Lagoon 470 who had been in Whangarei in the yard with us. We stayed a couple of days here, walking the length of the beach and across the other side of the island, swimming and trying to paddleboard.

Along with “Family Circus” we returned to Pangai to clear out before journeying north to Vava’u. You must clear in and out with customs before moving between each island group, a task that seems a rather unnecessary formality to us but I guess they have their reasons.

Luckily not too serious

Arriving at the jetty and stepping out of the yamahama I lost my footing on the exceptionally slippery concrete and rather indelicately landed on my bum hurting my pride!! Paperwork stamped and we were on our way again, this time however, even though we knew it was treacherously slippery, Jamie ended up crashing down on his back, whacking his head on the bottom concrete step. Blood poured everywhere, he lost consciousness for a short time, I screeched for Chris (Family Circus) to come help, and two young army men working on a nearby building came, we loaded Jamie onto the tray of a ute and took him to the hospital where he was seen immediately, vital signs checked, antibiotics prescribed, head dressed and in less than 2 hours we were making our way gingerly back to SOL thankful the damage was not severe.

Proudly he stepped out from under the tree

and showed off his NZ Warriors shirt

Anchored that night outside the harbour and spent a relaxing few days there, just walking, swimming, kayaking – just taking it easy really, making sure Jamie wasn’t going to suffer any after-effects – and he was fine. On one walk along the beach we found a man sitting under a tree, resting, his wife out in the hot sun with the net, fishing. This appears to be the norm here – the women doing the bulk of the work while the menfolk supervise!!

Upping anchor at dawn on Wednesday 30^th May we had a super sail with the wind behind us and the screecher up travelling the 75 nautical miles north with ease and were anchored in the bay at Vaka’eitu Island before 4pm. Also in the bay were some boats who were with the World ARC which made it fun as we got together for sundowner drinks Thursday evening on the beach. David and Hika, the Tongan couple who live here in Vaka’eitu hold traditional Tongan feasts each Saturday night during the whale season and this Saturday was to be the first for this year – so with spit-roast suckling pig on offer we just had to stay for a few more nights.

Take two little pigs, poke a stick through each of them, light the fire and hand turn for a couple of hours - best crackle ever

Hika with some of the dishes she prepared for us

Well, the feast was amazing – simply amazing and started with a Kava ceremony – ok if drinking muddy looking water is appealing!!  Perfectly cooked pig, crackle to die for, an extensive array of dishes to accompany the pork ranging from taro, sweet potato, crab salad, octopus, teriyaki chicken, potato salad, lu pulu (taro leaves stuffed with corned beef) and much more.

Covered in coconut oil, she danced and audience stuck banknotes to her as payment

David played the guitar, Hika and the girls sang, and the girls gave a display of traditional Tongan dance – it was an exceptional evening, thoroughly enjoyed by us and a dozen yachts who were on the World ARC Rally.

The three youngest of David and Hika's 11 children also danced