Tuesday, 19 December 2017

Crossing the Tasman ...

Away at Last - 
0700 hrs Thursday 23rd November 2017 saw us finally cast off the docklines in Australia and set off across the Tasman.
Bye bye Coffs Harbour, Adieu Australia
Sailing to NZ !!

The first hour down the coast was filled with sending and receiving farewell messages to and from family and friends. Even the dolphins came along with us for a few miles to see us off.
Our route was more of a U shape due to the prevalence of the Easterly winds which were going to make passage to New Zealand unpleasant were we to try to go directly. 
So, we initially went down the coast, although the winds were not very strong we were making good speed, travelling along at an average between 8 and 8.5 knots. We put a reef in the main for the night, just as a security measure – we didn’t want to have too much sail up if the wind increased during the night, so reducing the size of the sails in the daylight is a good idea, but around 3am on Friday morning the wind had dropped away and so the reef was shaken out, the jib furled away and the port engine started.


This was to be our view for the next few days

We ticked along like this for the next four hours, only managing about 5.5 knots boat speed, we only run one engine as the increase of speed through running two in these conditions is minimal yet running two uses more diesel, of course. The sky was clear blue with next to no cloud, the sailing was pleasant if unexciting – a few more knots of wind would have been superb. This continued all the next day, alternately motorsailing as the wind dropped away then turning off the engine as the wind filled in.
We had the fishing lures out constantly, with no success – until WOO HOO – FISH ON !!!! it was big, it fought, it leapt out of the water just beside the boat showing us its beautiful blue colour and its marlinlike bill – then with a final twist it broke away, taking our special new lure with it. Sorry, Lilly, the swordfish you wanted us to catch got away.
We seem unable to break the 10-knot boat speed barrier and with the wind no greater than 15 knots maximum we were wondering if we would ever see the shores of New Zealand!!! No longer were we reefing before dark – just in case – we would have welcomed the wind being stronger and necessitating reefed sails.

Night watch, moon hiding behind cloud
The trip continued in this vein all through Friday night, with some periods where we sailed along nicely and others where it was completely frustrating with minimal wind and engines on – certainly not how we had envisaged the passage.

Saturday afternoon saw a change – the wind got up to 27 knots, we reefed the main, furled in some jib, then put a second reef in the mainsail, furled the jib and pulled out the staysail – a smaller sail than the jib. We were taking waves over the bows and the occasional one over the cabin top – SOL was uttering the odd creak and groan of disapproval as water splashed all over her. 
Unfortunately, the hatch over the forward starboard cabin sprung a leak – right as we were in the midst of sail changing – of course, which meant that water was leaking down on the bed – the seal around the hatch had split. We did an emergency repair which entailed tying a plastic bag over the hatch on the outside, then squirting the gap full of mastic – and it worked!! Luckily the amount of water ingress had not been great and a strategically placed towel covered the damp patch. We had two reefs in the main and just half the jib out for the next couple of days, each time we shook out a reef in the main we ended up putting it back in an hour or two later.
But…on Wednesday evening around 8pm the wind had died away yet again. Now as well, the current was against us – it was back to motoring.

Sunrise over a calm Tasman Sea
The sea was flat calm, an absolutely azure blue colour, but flat calm all the same. We were becalmed in the Tasman Sea. Unheard of. We were all prepared for cold and wind – these sunny days and lack of even the slightest breeze astounded us all.

Not even a ripple

We didn't need the foul weather gear this trip!!
We have been underway 7 days now and had the winds been in our favour we would have been rounding the tip of New Zealand – instead we were stuck in the Tasman – not complaining about the very temperate weather, just some wind would have been nice. It was totally bizarre to be sunning ourselves up on the trampoline with a book in hand in comparison to the last time Jamie and I sailed across to New Zealand where we were in our foul weather gear from day two!!
Admittedly though, these windless days made for some superb photographs.
Still, we tried
There was no point in having the fishing lines out either – for a start we weren’t going fast enough and secondly with the very calm flat seas came the jellyfish, millions of these small creatures which clogged up our lures.
At 0800hrs (Australian time) Saturday we changed to New Zealand time losing 2 hours in the process – surely this means we are 2 hours closer to New Zealand!!! At 0730 we had raised the sails in the slight breeze and we were sailing again with the screecher up and making way. A very large pod of dolphins came alongside and all around us, cavorting in our wake like there was something exciting about to happen….
And yes, at 1300hrs Saturday December 2nd 2017 came the call – LAND HO!!!
New Zealand was in sight. Up on the starboard spreader went the Yellow Flag – the international Q flag signifying “we are entering your country’s waters from overseas and we need customs and immigration clearance before we can make landfall”.
Nelson, the top of the South Island, New Zealand

As we approached Farewell Spit the wind increased. 
In the space of just a few hours it went from around 8 knots to 30 and sails went up and down more often than a whores drawers!! At one stage we were flying along at boat speeds more than 16knots and the dolphins were having a ball, leaping and laughing as they raced us to the New Zealand coast.
Heather (NZ Customs) and Stuart (NZ Immigration) were at the quarantine dock to take our lines – what terrific service, totally unexpected but welcome. The whole customs and immigration process went without a hitch and an hour later we were free to enter a berth in Nelson Marina.
WHAT – NELSON???????
Yes, as we say when cruising…
Plans are written in the sand at low tide
Always open to change, and due to the conditions, added to the fact that we would probably not sail down to this area, when we were becalmed and it seemed the wind would not cooperate with a northerly passage, we had decided to make landfall here, spend a few days cruising around the beautiful Tasman Bay/Marlborough Sounds before going north. 

Another amazing photo opportunity mid-Tasman
Bruce and Jamie relaxing on the trampoline - many hours were spent thus

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