Bundaberg Bound...

Shortly before we left Mackay we were lucky to see and go on board the 15^th century replica Portuguese Caravelle, “Notorious” which was constructed over a 9-year period just out of Warnambool in country Victoria. Built of Monterey cypress – also known as macrocarpa, she is exactly how you would picture a true old pirate ship. She was launched in 2011 and now sails the coast stopping to allow public viewing.

"Notorious" at Mackay Marina

Amazing patterns made on the sand by crabs

Arriving at Curlew Island was a bit hairy. Just outside of the anchorage is a reef area called the Tinonee bank, the water swirls and eddies around the edges of it and the current races through the smallish gap, this is probably due to the large 5-6metre rise and fall in tide. However once we were in, this was a delightful anchorage (certainly the power boats thought so as they outnumbered sail three to one). We stayed here two nights, walking the length of the white sand beach in both directions, each adding a white rock to the collection on what we called “Inukshuk Rock” at the eastern end of the bay, and clambering over oyster clad rocks at the western end. We walked as far as we could inland too, drawn in by what sounded like hordes of monkey screeching to each other – we never saw what was making this noise as millions of little bitey things sent us out of the mangrove swamp region back to the beach smacking at our ankles.

Yet another beautiful sunset, Curlew Island

We did have fishing success though – but not the result we desired – we caught many Remora, the horrid looking sucker fish and there is absolutely no way that we are eating anything that looks that disgusting, even the thought makes me feel ill. And yes, the island is aptly named – curlew nest in the sandhills along the shore.

Hanging out in an abandoned dinghy on Curlew Island

Adding a white rock

Next stop the Percy Group, much famed, this group of islands has attracted boaties for decades. The first resident, in 1860, Jimmy Joss, lived here until 1918 and the story goes that he apparently left 1500 gold sovereigns buried beneath a special rock when he left the island in 1918 too ill and old to stay!! Goats were introduced in 1874 and have been utilised by the island residents for meat, milk and skins since. Leaseholder Colonel Armitage moved to the island in 1887, he grew coffee, raised sheep and cattle. Back in 1921 the White Family bought the lease, moved from Canada, building the Homestead and running a sheep station until 1964 when the next leaseholder, Andrew Martin took over. Andy began catering to the needs of the passing boaties – building an A-Frame hut, shelter area with BBQ, starting an apiary, selling honey, and planting coconut palms the length of the beach. 

A-Frame hut on Middle Percy Island

The A-Frame hut is home to a huge collection of memorabilia – all passing boaties are encouraged to leave a sign with the name of their boat and there are hundreds – possibly thousands. We had found a nice piece of driftwood up at Newry Island, had spent some time carving and now “SOL 2017” hangs at the top of the stairs.

SOL 2017

Walking to Rescue Bay

We had a great three nights here. We walked to the homestead on Wednesday, where the current leaseholder, Andy Martin’s cousin, gave us cold drinks, told us some island history, showed us photos and sold us some homemade chutney, marmalade and some of the island’s famous honey. On Thursday morning we walked to Rescue Bay, a completely different bay to where we were anchored. Rescue Bay is covered in sand dunes, with white, white sand that squeaks under your feet as you walk. The waves were crashing in here this day and I could feel that it would indeed be where many a rescue had taken place in the past.

There is a spot, halfway to the homestead, about 2km along the track where there is a sign that says – “ring ring” – and here, if you are lucky, hold your tongue right, wave your phone around above your head you may, just may get enough reception to receive or send a text!!

Rescue Bay

Truly a beautiful anchorage, although I have read that it can be very uncomfortable to be anchored here as it can be very rolly, we had flat calm and peaceful nights, where sitting enjoying a glass of wine in the cockpit around sunset each evening we were entertained with dolphins swimming through and around the boats, just having fun. On Thursday afternoon we were returning to SOL and it looked like the water under her, between her hulls was just boiling. A large school of small fish was there and racing through, grabbing a feed every time was a dolphin, this spectacle continued for about 10 minutes with the fish and dolphin so close you could almost touch them before the school of fish realised that to stay much longer meant certain death and away they went!!

Weird sky, shortly before the wind started howling!!

Friday 30^th June saw us having a good but somewhat bumpy sail to Hexham Island with dolphins again keeping us company for part of the journey.
We arrived in a really pretty bay which we had completely to ourselves and at low tide we collected oysters which we enjoyed for tea. We tried fishing from the rocks, but guess there must be a knack to it and we haven’t acquired that knack yet as we managed to get caught up on rocks more often than not. Caught a blue tusk fish, a really strange looking fish with bright blue teeth and although the book said it was ok for eating we let him go back to his friends.
With a strong wind warning for the next two days here we will stay, so checked we had enough anchor chain out, made sure we hadn’t moved and sat inside listening to the wind howl. There was limited sleep for us that night, in fact at about 1am I gave up and settled in the saloon with a blanket and my kindle. The anchor held but there was no way I could sleep so may as well get up and read.

Simply gorgeous Hexham Island anchorage, small bay, well sheltered for the most part - but no decent fish

Beautiful Pearl Bay - before 8 other boats arrived !!

First thing Monday morning we set off the 35nm to Pearl Bay watching the sun rise as we sailed in light winds south of Hexham. We were the only boat when we arrived and dived in for a swim then dinghied ashore for a walk along the 2km white sand beach but by evening there were 9 yachts sharing the flat calm clear water. Walking along the beach we saw a stingray in the shallows – thank god I hadn’t seen him earlier when we were swimming!!

We have had our first whale encounter!!!

Sailed out of Pearl Bay and Jamie saw what looked like an oil slick on the water just 30-40metres from us, he’s looking at this and saying what on earth could this be when we remembered that Dale, who had done our rudder bearings up in Mackay, had mentioned that he was going out fishing in his tinny and not far ahead they saw this pattern on the surface, he had thrown his boat into reverse just before a whale surfaced not far away!! Well, sure enough, within a minute or so there was a whale!! We were so excited that there was no way I could take my eyes off it to get the camera until of course it was too far away to be seen in the photo.

Yet another amazing picturesque anchorage, this time North Keppel Island

Spiders everywhere as we walked in North Keppel,

strung between the trees, hanging from the branches.

Loads of different looking ones too, fat skinny and scary!

North Keppel Island was our next stop, and I had thought that the water in Pearl Bay was flat calm and clear – but no, out of all the places we have anchored, North Keppel wins so far. We entered the bay at near low tide and anchored in just over a metre of water, and when we looked through the escape hatches we could see the grains of sand on the sea bed!! We could see our anchor and chain so clearly.
Also, caught the most beautiful golden trevally tonight – enough for two meals – nyum nyum.
On Wednesday we walked the length of North Keppel. Someone has done a super job and labelled the trees with both their botanical and their common names which we read as we walked along and although its a fairly big walk the view from the lookout made the uphill trek worthwhile.
If Brampton Island is the place for butterflies, North Keppel Island is the place for spiders – there were millions, strung between the trees and bushes along the paths, so much so that Jamie had to have a stick that he waved in front of him to clear the way else I would not have gone!! Also, at Mazie Beach, this was our first encounter with little blue soldier crabs, these tiny blue bodied crabs who move forwards, not sideways like other crabs, are seen in large groups all marching along together, like a proper battalion – hence the name. So fascinating are they that I could have watched them and followed them along the sand flats for ages as they moved in well-orchestrated formation.

View from lookout, North Keppel Island

Thursday, winds were predicted to be North-Westerly 10-15knots, so we figured a nice sail south – achieving 75nm to Bustard Head was doable – however – the wind was everything but. We even had 0 wind at one stage and were just drifting for a while. The highlight of the day was some dolphins who came and played in our bow wave – magical.

The wind did come in around 3pm so we decided to sail down to Bundaberg. We put up the screecher and with the wind behind us were making good ground. As the sun set we lowered the screecher, and with the main and jib sailed on into the night. With an almost full moon, clear skies for the most part it was a lovely night for a sail and we were going in to the Burnett River entrance at 9am where we dropped the anchor.

AAH … sleep, blissful sleep.