Final days in NZ...

Back to One Tree Point – and SOL was still happily on the mooring – not that we expected her not to be but is just very reassuring to round that last bend and see her safely bobbing out there.

Jamie’s brother Lionel was over from Sydney and came and spent a couple of days with us. The weather was miserable to say the least – not a great introduction to boat life for him – as we approached the rain looked imminent and the sea was particularly choppy and getting more so. Dark was falling as Jamie and Lionel struggled against the outgoing tide, the trusty Yamahama chugging through the waves, slowly making their way out to SOL. I saw the lights go on in the cockpit and breathed a sigh of relief as soon I would also be aboard, out of the rain and in the warm.

The inclement weather didn’t dampen Lionel’s spirits – especially when he hooked a couple of snapper – in fact we landed the biggest snapper caught so far on SOL that weekend. Amazing as we were on a mooring in only about 6ft of water. So, we feasted – truth be told – we gorged ourselves on fresh caught fish!!

It was great to see Lionel and have him see what our life was like now, he will be able to reassure Jamie’s mum back in Australia that we are fine and the boat is lovely. Two nights is not long and soon we had to take him back to Auckland and it was time for our next project…

Before leaving for the Islands we wanted to haul SOL out of the water again for a little maintenance so we booked in with Port Whangarei Marine Centre - a great place with excellent amenities not far from the Whangarei town.

On Wednesday 18^th April we were once more being lifted out of the water, wheeled across the yard and placed on blocks. We intended this to be a short stay out of the water, but, as usual these things never follow a set plan. We prepared the hulls and painted new antifouling on – this will stop marine growth or at the very least slow it – the last lot of paint had lasted really well. We reapplied some special coating to the propellers, we had used the same product before and although we didn’t probably need to, we decided to renew it anyway – an arduous task, but well worth the time and trouble.

I say things don’t always go to plan, and this time was not different – we discovered that all four of our “house” batteries had come to the end of their lifespan. “House” batteries run everything except the starting of the engines, hence the name. We had Lifeline AGM batteries and wanted to replace them with the same especially as that meant no alteration to the systems in place – just pull them out and slot the new ones in. HUH. These batteries weighed 46kg each, and they were slotted into place like tetris blocks – not an easy task (or cheap) – but we did it.

We have the charts - both paper and electronic, have cooked and vac packed food for passage, restocked the larder, done everything in preparation and also bought many pairs of reading glasses, and various other items we figure will be useful as trade or thankyou items for the Tongan people who have been hard hit by cyclones this season.

We were intending to have just us two on board for this passage, however two young guys answered an ad I had forgotten I had placed on a sailing website asking for interested crew and so this afternoon we collect them from the bus station and load them and their gear aboard. They are sailing up to Opua with us and then if they cope, and we are all happy with each other they will be coming to Tonga with us.

So tomorrow, May 3^rd, we splash back into the water here at Whangarei, then sail up to Opua, refuel at the marina there and on Friday morning we clear customs ready for departure either late Friday or early Saturday.

Tonga here we come…Whoop whoop!!

South Island Sojourn…

So, with some trepidation we left SOL on a mooring at One Tree Point, Whangarei and drove to Auckland for our flight to meet our Canadian friends in Christchurch. We had not left her alone since moving aboard on 12^th April 2017, and although this may not seem a big deal to others it was to us.

A touring tram in Christchurch

The flight was uneventful and we met up with Jim and Terry at the hotel then went to explore the once beautiful city. It is still a beautiful city, despite the carnage wreaked by the earthquake in 2010 – with the Avon River flowing through the centre, some old buildings still standing and gorgeous parks. 

We took a tram tour through the city, to the Cathedral (decimated by the earthquake but soon to be rebuilt), the old university, art gallery, quake city (we spent a couple of hours here – it was so interesting), the Avon – the tram driver’s talks making the city come alive for us.

Next morning it was out to pick up our motorhome – and we were off – not without a few hiccups – (the first vehicle they gave us was fairly substandard) – off to visit the charming town of Akaroa with its narrow streets and French influence visible all around. Due to the rather large cruise ship in the harbour our stay was short and we turned north to Hanmer Springs, where we met up with Derek and Debbie, who just happened to be over from Australia, also motor-homing, and who I had met Jim and Terry through all those years ago. Next morning it was off to the hot springs for a couple of hours luxuriating then on to Kaikoura.

Debbie, Derek, Jamie, Jim, Linda and Terry - Kaikoura beachfront free campsite

The men watching the sun rise, Kaikoura

Kaikoura is on the east coast and the Maori translation is Kai=food, Koura=crayfish and it is here the best crays are reputedly to be found – I say reputedly as we felt that at $100 a cray we would not be partaking of this delicacy!! We camped in a magic spot on the beachfront, enjoyed a few drinks and superb company, dinner, and woke next morning to an amazing sunrise before bidding a fond farewell to Derek and Debbie as we continued our trek north.

Blenheim and a stop for coffee with Frank (our old neighbour from Matakana) then on through the Wairau Valley and its miles and miles of vineyards to the Buller Gorge. Here we encountered our first (and only) rain of the trip – it didn’t just rain – it poured!!! and right as we got to the swing bridge across the Buller River – New Zealand’s longest swing bridge (110m) but we donned our coats and braved the weather to cross it and also check out the old mining cottages on the other side. From there it was on to Westport, on the west coast (obviously) where we spent the night.

Buller Gorge

Fourth day in the South Island and it was down the coast to the amazing Punakaiki Rocks (Pancake Rocks) and Blowholes. These limestone rocks are layered just like stacks of pancakes – hence the name – and in several places the sea bursts through vertical blowholes during the high tide. 

Then to Greymouth and a quick stop at Monteith’s Brewery for a light refreshment before heading to Franz Josef for the night. The Franz Josef Glacier is a 12 km (7.5 miles) long temperate maritime glacier located in Westland National Park on the West Coast of New Zealand's South Island. Together with the Fox Glacier 20 km (12 miles) to the south, and a third glacier, it descends from the Southern Alps to less than 300 metres (980 ft) above sea level.

A postcard moment - Lake Matheson

reflecting Mt Cook and Mt Tasman

Next day, Thursday 29^th March it was up early and out to stunning Lake Matheson, famous for its reflected views of Aoraki/Mt Cook and Mt Tasman – and we were certainly not disappointed, the water was still, the clouds were absent and we were treated to the sight that postcards are made of!! 

Then to Haast Pass (named after Dutch explorer, Julius von Haast). The road, up until 1966 was just a rough track which was then sealed in 1995 – thank goodness – it would have been rather a trial to travel through there in our motorhome if it were just gravel. 

We drove through miles of predominantly unmodified beech forest and it seemed that around every corner we saw another superb waterfall. A short stop and a walk out to the Blue Pools – yes, they are very clear and very blue with a rather wobbly swing bridge over – then off to Wanaka where we found ourselves a lovely free camping spot right on the shores of Glendhu Bay.

A perfect camping spot on the shore of Lake Wanaka

Good Friday we left Wanaka as hundreds of visitors flocked in for the biennial “Warbirds over Wanaka” airshow event – this has been held every two years since 1988 and has become such a major attraction that roads are closed, traffic diverted and apparently accommodation is booked out well in advance. 

We passed Cromwell, famous as near here is a point which is the furthest place in the whole of New Zealand from the sea – (and that is only a distance of 119km). We visited Arrowtown next, an absolutely gorgeous historic old mining town which sprang up in 1862 and many old European and Chinese buildings remain. From there it was a drive-through Queenstown, (beautiful but not welcoming to campervans), sat and had dinner beside Lake Wakatipu soaking in the magnificent views of this lake bordered by mountains. Then to Lake Hayes, where we spent a really enjoyable evening with Owen and Raewyn Williams, (I guess, they could be cousins by marriage, Owen being my stepmothers nephew) who have a business in nearby Arrowtown. We parked in their driveway, taking advantage of their toilet and shower along with their superb hospitality and a delightful bottle of a local Pinot Noir!!

Amazing view from Owen and Raewyn's property overlooking Lake Hayes

Saturday morning it was off via Mossburn, an incredibly scenic town and the deer capital of New Zealand, to Te Anau. Te Anau is another amazing lake – in fact the second largest lake in NZ – second to Taupo in the North Island. We hit the stores here again for more food and, of course, alcohol, before heading out to Milford Sound where we had booked to stay in the (very expensive) Milford Sound Camp Ground – along with what seemed like about another thousand campers. On the way a quick stop at Gunns Camp – with its very interesting small shop and museum. We then drove through the Homer Tunnel to Milford Sound.

Milford Sound by boat, waterfalls and Mitre Peak

Easter Sunday saw us queuing for our boat trip out on Milford Sound. This may sound tame after a trip across the Tasman, and also as Jamie and I had done this same trip 6 years ago, but again it didn’t disappoint. We were entranced by the scenic beauty, the waterfalls, the deep blue water and sheer majestic wonder of mother nature.

After Milford it was back via Te Anau to Gore for the night at the extremely well appointed Gore Agricultural Grounds for the night before driving on to the East Coast again to Dunedin. 

Dunedin was one of the places I really wanted Jim, Terry and Jamie to see as I had been here when I was about 17 and loved it. We drove out to Larnach Castle, a mock castle on the Otago Peninsular, built in the 1870’s by William Larnach it has an extremely interesting history, beautiful gardens and is open to the public. We spent a few hours roaming the buildings and grounds before making our way north to Warrington Reserve to free camp for the night.

Our South Island sojourn was fast coming to an end and Tuesday April 3^rd we walked along Koekohe Beach to the incredible Moeraki Boulders. These large, spherical boulders lie on the beach and the foreshore inviting tourists to climb in and over them marvelling at their almost perfectly round shape. 

We turned inland just past Oamaru to cross the Waitaki River and drove past the hydroelectric dams of Waitaki, Aviemore and Benmore, through the town of Twizel to picturesque Lake Tekapo, famous for the iconic Church of the Good Shepherd with its alter window framing the view of the lake and bronze statue of a Collie, recognising the role of the sheepdog in the lives of the Mackenzie Basin farming families.

Our final night was spent in a super little camping ground in Geraldine and Wednesday morning we drove the two hours to Christchurch to return our motorhome. Our moods were understandingly sombre this being the last we would see of each other for an unknown time and we said a tearful goodbye at Christchurch airport. Jim and Terry flew back to Canada, family and friends and we flew back to SOL to prepare for our upcoming sail to Tonga, Vanuatu, Fiji or wherever the winds may blow us next.

Larnach Castle

Cool silo houses, Little River on way to Akaroa